Ask the shop to let you watch. Make sure they don't let the engine cool down more than a half an hour, and wide open throttle while they're doing the test.

 

I can see why temperature could matter, but throttle? I would think that even at no throttle, enough air can get in for the engine can run at idle with no throttle and the starter runs the engine at a far slower speed than that. So it would seem to me that the throttle wouldn't matter.

 

When doing a compression test, you disable the fuel pump and the ignition system. You push down on the gas pedal when trying to start the car, so the engine can pull in the maximum amount of air to get an accurate reading.

I did a compression test without a wide open throttle and got readings similar to yours.

 

Maybe for old carbureted cars, which relied on an open throttle plate to idle, there's enough air to perform a compression test without further opening the throttle. But on your injected engine the IACV provides a metered air leak, bypassing the throttle plate, for idle air. The throttle plate is almost entirely closed with your foot off the gas pedal. WOT for a compression test.

Since you're having idle problems too, you might want to do a web search on the phrase "Honda IACV explained" for more info.

 

To report back, I had the compression tested, it came back 180, 175, 175, 185 much better than the 120,120,120,120 that the Honda dealership claimed.

Afterwards, The mechanic started knocking, from what I could tell just random, things with a screwdriver handle, till he could reproduce the idle dropping. He ended up re-seating the end of a wire back into a plug saying that that would probably fix the idle problem.

Now my issue is what is the proper course of action in complaining to Honda dealership concerning their compression test.

Since it was asked - The brand of spark plugs used was Autolite.

 

Never give them another dime of your money, tell any Honda-owning friends & family that dealership's service dept. is a ripoff, and write reviews of exactly what happened online: google maps, etc. Nothing libelous, just the facts.

 

Sorry, but I did not do as you recommended, for this is a major area dealership representing multiple brands (BMW, Honda, VW) exclusively with lots of mechanics and one bad mechanic does not make for a bad dealership. It is the same reason, I'm not going to denigrate Honda based on a single dealership. I googled looking specifically for complaints and didn't see any. Yes, it is possible that this individual dealership has systemic bad policies and is outright bad, but one incident does not make for a pattern of abuse. So, I'll not treat it as such.

So what I did do is contact the manager of the service dept and he listened which is a good sign. He also credited back all the money I spent, including the external compression test which is also a good sign. I will assume that he'll appropriately deal with the issue internally.

I doubt, I'll be spending money at the first shop or the dealership other than oil changes; I bought an oil change service contract when I purchased the car that gives highly discounted oil changes (the cost of an oil filter about $8.00). At this point I do not see any reason to throw away that investment. Between the three shops, the only shop I trust is the last one so it will get my business for other issues.

Thank you all very much for all the help. If I can help you folks, please let me know.

Please enjoy the holidays.

 

Identify the dealership, please. Other readers of this board will be appropriately warned off.

 

Sorry to everyone.....Henryfong, consider this the last warning. On topic and no sales links or you are done....I'm the nice mod, I thought about banning you this am when I deleted your other post in this thread

 

Independent shop: PM Automotive That recommended cutting off a tab on my distributor to adjust the timing.
Honda dealership: O'Brian Auto Group of Salem (Oregon) that failed a compression test.