Is there oil inside of the distributor cap?

Get a valve cover gasket set for the leak in the spark plug tubes. I have used the FelPro set. There are four seals in the valve cover. Plus there are four seals under the rocker arm assembly. Search for wYU8qtPzQOY on YouTube for a video on the lower seals.

The distributor o-ring is another source of an oil leak.

The oil pressure sending unit will be easily accessible when the cylinder head is removed. That can leak oil. It is around $15 at the dealership.

There are three shaft seals (camshaft, crankshaft, and front balance shaft seals) under the timing belt cover that can leak. Plus there is an o-ring style gasket under the rear balance shaft sprocket casing. The front balance shaft seal retainer should be installed (Honda had a recall on this). That ericthecarguy site has a video for sale for $10 with a step by step video on how to replace the timing belt that might be worth the investment.

 

This is going to sound like a stupid question I'm sure, but I'm curious before I take anything else apart. My detailed knowledge of how rocker arms and valves work is just enough to be dangerous.

Looking at the rocker arms from above with the valve cover off(as in the pic on the first page), if I wiggle each of the rockers as they currently sit after the belt breakage, should all of them be either tight(snug, not able to move up and down with my fingers), or should all of them be able to move up and down a slight bit? Or should just certain valves/cylinders be able to move a little depending on piston location, TDC, etc?

The reason I ask is that 3 of the 8 I can't budge with my fingers, while the other 5 move freely up and down a few millimeters. Can I assume that the tight ones are the ones that got bent when it blew? Or am I missing some key internal concept here before I take it apart?

Thanks.

 

Look at the lobes on the cam shaft. They are egg shaped. When the long part of the lobe is pushing on the rocker arm, there should be little movement of the rocker on the valve. When the short part of the lobe is contacting the rocker arm, there should be some play on between the rocker arm and the valve.

 

The belt is off, right? (or have you already installed a new one?)

Like I said earlier, move the crankshaft directly towards a point 90-degrees out, so all 4 pistons are mid-stroke. You can turn the camshaft any-which-way. At any given position of the camshaft, there will be some valves open, so you won't find any point where they ALL are completely closed.

Take off the upper timing cover so you can see the face of the sprocket. There's an arrow...
With the arrow pointing at roughly 12 o-clock all 4 rockers at cylinder #1 should have a very little movement. (Cyl #1 is closest to that sprocket)
Arrow pointing to 9 oclock - cylinder #3
6 oclock - #4
3 oclock - #2

Now when you check this, if you find any rockers that are noticably MORE LOOSE than the others, those valves are bent. If that's the case, you know you have to pull the head & get it repaired.

If you don't notice any loose, that unfortunately doesn't prove anything, 'cause you aren't measuring them precisely. Go through the motions of adjusting the valve lash, or just make the decision to remove the head anyway.

 

Well.......4+years later, I'm about to put this thing back together. I bought a new complete head off eBay and a bunch of other parts to throw in it while it's apart. Will update the post from my computer once I get going full speed.

 

Lol I hadn't noticed the date... I lucked out recently when the timing belt on my 97 snapped...

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...snapped-61890/

My last post on the first page there has links to some videos I found helpful when throwing it back together.

Good luck!

 

Honda Automotive Parts

Thanks. If you haven't noticed, I don't move very fast on my own stuff.

I used to sit down on my computer and at least post progress(or lack of), but I barely even get to do that anymore. Someday.....
Which leads me to where I am right now. More like a "Real time help" question.

Fuel injector seals/orings.

I'm trying to determine if I didn't get all of the seals/o rings I was supposed to in my Fel Pro kit.

Can someone tell me if there is another oring that is supposed to go on the fuel injector, other than what I have on in this picture?

That black ring is the seal (#2 on Majestic parts diagram) that will go into the manifold, but some online pictures shows there being another rubber o-ring(#29), similar to the rubber O ring on the end that goes into the fuel rail(#28, which you can't see in this picture.)

The other pic here shows the (4) old orings I took off the fuel rail end when I took them out. No problem there.

(That 5th oddball size ring in the pic was part of the new kit, but only came with qty (1). Maybe this is #29, and they shorted me 3? Or I just haven't figured it where the hell it's supposed to go yet.) I don't remember ever having o rings like these 4, at on the manifold end of the injector? Does this make any sense? Some of the seal kits I find online show another ring, others don't. All for the same 96 f22b2 engines.

Even the Majestic Honda parts blow up shows a "#29" o ring(?) on the diagram, but then doesn't even reference it in the line item break down. It certainly shouldn't be this damn hard to confirm if I'm missing a ring, but so far no one can tell me for sure. #2, #3, and #28 all make sense, but I dont see where I ever had #29, and its not on the line item list.

So in a nutshell, I need to know if there is actually a #29 o ring that I'm missing? (And it's not the screen that isn't apparently replaceable. I do have that cleaned out and reinstalled in the injectors on the fuel rail end)

Thanks,

Simpleton

 

Is that for where the FPR attaches to the rail?

 

Ok, now I sound even worse. What's the "fpr"? Is that short for injector? Just don't recognize the term. Sorry. Forget it. "Fuel Pressure Regulator". Got it now. And yes, that's what that ring was for.

#29 is the one I'm confused about. The Fel Pro gasket set shows:

Qty (4) Fuel Injector Seal (#28 I presume, which makes sense)
Qty (4) Fuel Injector Seal (#2 I presume, which go into the intake manifold, no problem here)
So it looks like I got what the kit showed, but why does the Majestic diagram show a #29, with no reference to it anywhere?

Also, that single small seal next to the 4 o rings on the Fel Pro pic, where does that go?

This is really a long drawn out explanation for something I'm sure is super simple, but I can't wrap my head around it for the life of me.

Then to top it off, I picked up an extra "complete" engine out of a 97 Accord on Craigslist a few weeks ago. For $150 it sounded like a steal with "only 56,000 miles on it". And it also came with the Gates TCK244 timing belt kit with both belts, idler, tensioner still new unopened in the box, a new Fel Pro head gasket still in box, and a new aftermarket water pump still new. So, for $150 it seems like the engine just came for free.

If it only has 56,000 miles on it, the guy mustve lived in Bikini Bottom with his buddy Patrick because the pulleys are rusted worse than mine with 160,000 miles on it, and the valve cover gasket looks new, intake gasket looks new, oil cap was missing. Suspicious clues that it perhaps has a"few" more miles than 56,000.

Anyway, it bounced around in the back of my Land Cruiser for 3 weeks because I couldn't find a way to lift the pig out of the back. Yesterday it finally moved enough to smash the rear side window out so today I used a forklift and picked it out. Took forever to get it mounted on my Harbor Freight stand, hauled it home in my little trailer, all safe and sound. Then slowly backing it out of the tilted trailer it caught when it came out and dropped right on the distributor cap among other things. Good thing there really wasn't a plan for installing it into anything because I don't know if it broke anything else at the same time. At least it's out of my truck now anyway.

 

Sorry, I don't know what that #29 thing is at Majestic. But Majestic (and others) share the same illustration across different car models, so it just might be something that doesn't even belong on your car.

A good example like that is an illustration that shows 3 different versions of a fan switch screwed into the T-stat housing. Only one of those switches actually belongs on any particular year/version of the car.