These are the codes I just pulled using the scantool from O Reilleys. Will have to dig deeper tonight.

 

This is one where the first thing you need to do is check the work - it was done over a long period of time. Be sure the connectors are all seated - trans switch and that.

Not sure if you cleaned the egr ports while everything was apart or not. There is a plate on the intake to get to those.

Next I would check the vac lines to the egr valve to be sure they are seated.....and the connector to the top of the egr valve.

Next a cleaning of the egr can't hurt......just be careful as one of the nuts that hold it on is a funny angle and you can round it off if you don't take your time. Use vac and be sure to clean the valve well while off.

 

Thanks. All great info. Makes sense to me too, even.

I did clean every port/passage/valve I could find while it was apart, but I'm wondering if maybe some gunk got into there somewhere and worked it's way into the egr, or one of the ports and plugged it up. When the intake and exhaust manifolds were off, I ran a brush on the end of my drill with a flexi connector and basically "honed"(?) every surface it could touch. Bunch of different size diameter brushes. Vacuumed them out, blew them out with air, wiped down with brake cleaner. Sure was as clean as I could ever see parts getting, but with all that loose crud floating around it wouldn't surprise me if some worked itself elsewhere.

I did use a drill bit and various sized pokers to clear every opening I could find.

Will check all the connections too, because I don't see how else transmission codes would now be in the mix. That just screams "You didn't get something back where it's supposed to go" to me.

I ran a full tank of gas and only got 21.6 mpg. It was about a half a tank with the egr code on, and was spent at 75-80 for about half of it. Still seems lower than it should be.

Hunting tomorrow so not sure if I'll get back to the wagon tonight. Replacing a front pinion seal in my Land Cruiser right now. It's messier than tracking down egr issues.

 

I went to adjust my valves again because it was sounding a little noisy and I wasn't sure if I did it perfectly the first time.

After removing the valve cover, I noticed the spark plugs tubes were full of oil. And not just a little like they were when this all began. They were all full, to the top.
So I removed the valve cage (?) per Eric The Car Guy's video and found that there were NO seals even in there.

This was a completely new head/valve /cam assy I ordered off ebay. i.e. I've never had it separated so it couldn't be anything I forgot to install.

I luckily had the tube seals I needed from a gasket set I bought, then never used once I ordered the new complete head.

So.....I've now installed the seals and put the cage back on the valve train. I havent tightened the bolts all the way yet, but all seems fine.

My current issue though, is that in all my coming and going from the car over a couple of hours, I remembered I had rotated the cam with a wrench on the power steering pully at some point in the process, but I can't remember exactly when.

So my question is.....if I rotated the cam with the valve cage off, is everything out of sync now when I reinstalled the cage?

Or are all of the parts still in the right position since the timing belt was never touched in the process?

I've been hurrying to get too many things done today and now my brain is fried trying to envision if I screwed this up, or if I'm just over thinking it.

Any thoughts would be welcomed before I lose my motivation and just watch TV the rest of the night. Thanks

 

The timing should not be off, because the valves are moving with the crank.

If you rotated the cam/crank without the cage installed, you could have bent a valve. The cam was moving, but the valves weren't.

If you were doing this by hand, you should have felt/heard metal on metal and had high resistance turning the cam.

 

I'm back in the garage and have everything torqued down and I'm rotating the power steering pulley again with a 19 millimeter wrench and everything is moving up and down smoothly like it should. No weird resistance or anything that seems out of the ordinary. I just don't want to put everything back together, then fire it up and listen to parts fly because I had a brain cramp halfway through.

 

Am I the only one that's received a head without the spark plug tube seals in there? That just baffles me. It really makes me wonder if they can forget to put those seals in there, what else did they forget to do? I've got a couple thousand miles on it since I put the new head on after the timing belt Fiasco. Other than my check engine light for the po1491 code it's been running just fine tho getting a little noisy, hence why I took it apart to adjust the valves again. Since I'm not very good at it I wanted to double-check before a 1500 mile weekend coming up

 

It's running again it seems to be running smoothly but blowing a lot of smoke out of the tailpipe which I'm hoping is just all that extra oil that would have drained into the cylinders when I took the plugs out

 

Couple hundred miles and all is well so far.