96 accord no windows, a/c, fans
#22
10-30-2013, 04:33 PM
A1: Unless, you’re testing a different fuse than what is shown in the circuit diagram as No. 21 (for the radiator fan relay) or some wires have been re-routed; if the radiator fan runs via power coming through the radiator fan relay, power has to come through the No. 21 fuse.
A2: You can pull the A/C clutch relay and test for continuity like how I previously stated in the above posts or the following alternative:
With a jumper wire ground the A/C clutch relay terminal 4 (where the Red/Blu wire would be connected); if you can, backprobe the Red wire to check for voltage power (+) at terminal 3 of the relay with the voltmeter red lead and black lead connected to chassis ground; with the ignition turned ON. If there is power at Red wire coming from the relay, A/C clutch relay works and power is making it through the relay.
Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. Voltage is checked by touching black lead to chassis ground, and red lead to backprobe the red wire at the A/C clutch relay electrical connector.
You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.
A3: It looks like Honda has two different A/C compressors:
Check for resistance:
Hadsys: 3.0 +- 0.15 ohms at 68 degrees F
Nippodenso: 3.6 +- 0.2 ohms at 68 degrees F
A2: You can pull the A/C clutch relay and test for continuity like how I previously stated in the above posts or the following alternative:
With a jumper wire ground the A/C clutch relay terminal 4 (where the Red/Blu wire would be connected); if you can, backprobe the Red wire to check for voltage power (+) at terminal 3 of the relay with the voltmeter red lead and black lead connected to chassis ground; with the ignition turned ON. If there is power at Red wire coming from the relay, A/C clutch relay works and power is making it through the relay.
Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. Voltage is checked by touching black lead to chassis ground, and red lead to backprobe the red wire at the A/C clutch relay electrical connector.
You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.
A3: It looks like Honda has two different A/C compressors:
Check for resistance:
Hadsys: 3.0 +- 0.15 ohms at 68 degrees F
Nippodenso: 3.6 +- 0.2 ohms at 68 degrees F
#23
10-30-2013, 09:29 PM
I'm defenitely on under hood fuse #21 according to alldata and my fuseblock cover and the readings for the a/c clutch relay are white wire 12.59, blk/yel wire 11.81 w/ ignition on. My engine does not overheat, but the cooling fan never comes on now, nor will the condenser fan come on when the a/c button is pushed. They all stopped working at the same time a/c went out. Thanks for your help.
#25
10-30-2013, 10:41 PM
It doesn't sound like you tested whether the A/C clutch relay is working; i.e., whether power is going through the relay.
Since Honda used two different compressors, the location of where you touch one of the leads from the ohmmeter to read the coil resistance is slightly different between the two compressors. In the "Common DIY and other info. threads" sticky at the top of this forum section are links to downloadable service manuals. The 94 Accord service manual has some of the info. that would be applicable to your 96 Accord.
Since Honda used two different compressors, the location of where you touch one of the leads from the ohmmeter to read the coil resistance is slightly different between the two compressors. In the "Common DIY and other info. threads" sticky at the top of this forum section are links to downloadable service manuals. The 94 Accord service manual has some of the info. that would be applicable to your 96 Accord.
#27
10-31-2013, 11:14 AM
I must have overlooked trying to engage the compressor clutch by grounding it. I'll get back to you with results. Thanks again for your help.
#28
10-31-2013, 04:25 PM
Tried grounding the red/blue wire to the compressor clutch relay with no results. Ignition switch was on. Still getting no reading from the nippondenso clutch field coil resistance test. Does that mean replace the compressor clutch coil? I still have no fans without jumping them? Any ideas? I appreciate your help.
#29
10-31-2013, 04:31 PM
I also checked my refrigerant reading again and it shows in the blue(about 35-45 lbs.). I remember now when the a/c went out, I was at highway speed and heard a noise then no more a/c. I stopped at an autozone and added some regrigerant, just enough to get it on the high side of the blue area(45 lbs.) and my condenser fan would come on when the a/c switch was engaged. Cooling fan would come on fairly quickly while idling with outside temperature 90+ deg. Soon after the a/c went out then both fans stopped working but not immediately? Any thoughts on that? Thanks.
#30
10-31-2013, 04:51 PM
You have a significant leak allowing pressure to decline below AC pressure switch low OFF setting.
No radiator fan run when condensor fan would run suggests the radiator fan relay or radiator fan is bad. Could also be wiring or connector fault.
Did compressor kick on when Condensor fan came on?
good luck
No radiator fan run when condensor fan would run suggests the radiator fan relay or radiator fan is bad. Could also be wiring or connector fault.
Did compressor kick on when Condensor fan came on?
good luck