Nevermind, got it to torrent. Gunna take a while with only 2 peers. Wish they had it available for download from a server.

 

I didn't realize they took down the server links.

The third hondatech link has it to download the fast way. Just copy and paste this into your browser.

hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

The 94 is the third on in the list.

 

Awesome, got it PA, and upon scanning through it it looks like it should have everything ill need to get this problem shaken out. The one I had pulled up was an incomplete version of the one you turned me to. Any chance the wires are going to be the same color for the 96 as the 94? I'll give it a better look tomorrow and work my way through the troubleshooting guide.

Thanks a lot for the help PA
Zac

 

The 96 and 94 are almost identical vehicles. There are differences between them like where some engine sensors are located. There are other differences that you will encounter. The power window and sunroof circuits are the same though.

 

have you looked at any grounds? if the circuit is grounded out before the switch then that would explain none of them working, i know mitchel diagrams have ground locations on them and shouldnt be too hard to find.

 

Well, pulled every fuse under the hood and under the dash this morning and they all seem to be good, and pulled the 2 relays under the hood and one under the dash and tested them all as best I could. Hooked up a 9v battery to the low-pass side of them, and they clicked, then hooked up a 12v to the high pass side and showed current through the relay, so all 3 of them seem to be good. So, with no bad fuses/relays that I know of and all the wiring seems to have continuity, I'm not really sure where to go next.

Muffinman, I pulled all of the wiring out of the door yesterday and traced it back to within 6" or so of the under-dash fuse box and didn't see anywhere it could have grounded out, and I have current into the hot side of the under-dash fuse box, so I don't think my wiring is bad anywhere, but obviously something has to be messed up whether its relay, fuse, or wiring related, otherwise they would work!

Thanks for the continued help guys. I'm thinking it may be a bad connection somewhere but I really don't know. I'm gunna keep messin with it.

Thanks.

 

Made somewhat of a breakthrough. After looking at the wiring diagram a bit, I figured only 2 things could be wrong. Either the hot wire from the fuse into the relay was bad, or the ground on the relay was bad. Best way to test this was to make a wire to bridge the high side of the relay. Did that and I now have power to the windows. So one of two wires is bad somewhere, but everything else in the system is fine.

 

So you jumped the high current side of the relay, and the windows work?

Switch the raditor and the window relays to see if the windows will work.

 

You got it. Jumped high current side = windows working.

I did think to try that and still had nothing. I pulled both of those relays and tested them how the shop manual describes and they both seemed to be good, so the problems is either with the hot wire going in to the low current side of the relay or the ground coming out of the low current side. Either way, I ran out of weekend and got tired of messing with wires so I left the jumper.

As best I can tell, the relay only prevents the power windows from constantly having voltage, which either keeps you from running down your battery if you're playing with them, or keeps somebody from using a coathanger to roll them all the way down if they're cracked.

I'm might take a look back at it in a couple weeks during spring break, but for now I'm just gunna leave the jumped in as a simple solution.