96 Accord Transmission Crack
#1
96 Accord Transmission Crack
Hi, im new here but already liking the valuable information i've been finding!
Anyways, I bought a 96 accord LX a week ago. I recently checked the transmission fluid and it smelled horribly burnt, the transmission also was shifting semi hard so I thought, why not drain and replace the fluids?
This turned out to create a bigger problem. While trying to muscle the stupid fluid drain plug loose with vice grips and a hammer I ended up accidently hammering the vicegrips into this little Fin right on the side of the transmission drain plug. The fin that sticks out right next to the bolt. Anyhow the whole corner came off revealing a dime sized hole... So my question is, If i applied JB Weld to the inside of the fin and the place it sheared off from, as well as applying a hefty amount of jb weld to the surrounding areas/external cracks. Would that fix the problem? if not how long would it hold?
Anyways, I bought a 96 accord LX a week ago. I recently checked the transmission fluid and it smelled horribly burnt, the transmission also was shifting semi hard so I thought, why not drain and replace the fluids?
This turned out to create a bigger problem. While trying to muscle the stupid fluid drain plug loose with vice grips and a hammer I ended up accidently hammering the vicegrips into this little Fin right on the side of the transmission drain plug. The fin that sticks out right next to the bolt. Anyhow the whole corner came off revealing a dime sized hole... So my question is, If i applied JB Weld to the inside of the fin and the place it sheared off from, as well as applying a hefty amount of jb weld to the surrounding areas/external cracks. Would that fix the problem? if not how long would it hold?
#2
I don't know how long it would hold. The important thing is to get it sealed.
The piece could be welded back in. That should seal and hold it in there. You may want to call around to see what that would run.
Can you post a picture, so we can see the damage?
The piece could be welded back in. That should seal and hold it in there. You may want to call around to see what that would run.
Can you post a picture, so we can see the damage?
#3
Sure, I dont have a picture of the pre-fix but I do have a picture of the fin that im attempting to seal/fix.
The grey goop is obviously the JB weld, and you can see the corner section that sheared off. Im thinking about putting 2 coats of JB weld to get the area sealed off. Ignore the tire iron im using to prop the piece in place.
My main question is how long the jb weld will last? And if it wont last long what are my options? I dont feel like dropping 400$ on a used tranny just for a slight of hand error.
The grey goop is obviously the JB weld, and you can see the corner section that sheared off. Im thinking about putting 2 coats of JB weld to get the area sealed off. Ignore the tire iron im using to prop the piece in place.
My main question is how long the jb weld will last? And if it wont last long what are my options? I dont feel like dropping 400$ on a used tranny just for a slight of hand error.
#4
The transmission housing is aluminum, so JB Weld should be compatible.
I have no clue how long that will last. Keep a bottle or two of ATF with you and keep a close eye for leaks on the ground. If you find a leak, add ATF and get the car home or to a shop. Keep a very close eye on it early on.
There is a cover for the passenger's side of the transmission (#1 in pic), but I can't tell if the hole is on that cover.
A body shop may be able to weld that piece back in place if the JB Weld doesn't work.
I have no clue how long that will last. Keep a bottle or two of ATF with you and keep a close eye for leaks on the ground. If you find a leak, add ATF and get the car home or to a shop. Keep a very close eye on it early on.
There is a cover for the passenger's side of the transmission (#1 in pic), but I can't tell if the hole is on that cover.
A body shop may be able to weld that piece back in place if the JB Weld doesn't work.
#5
The best way to JBweld it is drain all the fluid out of the tranny, use brake cleanner on it so the surface is clean without any oil on it then apply JBweld, it's kind of hard because it's up-side-down, let it sit for a whole day to dry out before put any oil in it. At least where the "crack" is there is no pressure at all, just need to be seal to keep the fluid in, it can only be weld during an overhaul, because you don't want to weld it under car like that, aluminum absorb heat, if you put too much heat you will melt the internal parts of the tranny.
Last edited by piggylover1985; 06-18-2011 at 09:19 PM.
#6
Thanks for all the advice guys, I ended up letting it dry for 5 hours, then applying another coat of JB weld covering more of the area and adding alot more. I put in 2.8qts and no leaks are showing. Think i did the job. Going to let it sit overnight and half of the day tomorrow before I drive it. Hopefully it will hold.
#7
Also might want to use the regular JB Weld and not JB Kwik as the Kwik version has less tolerance to things like heat.
And to make absolutely sure you would want to keep it curing for at least the amount of hours they recommend on the blister pack instructions. Maybe a few hours more to make sure it's totally cured.
And to make absolutely sure you would want to keep it curing for at least the amount of hours they recommend on the blister pack instructions. Maybe a few hours more to make sure it's totally cured.
#8
For future reference, removing that plug is best accomplished w/ a 3/8" drive male end. A 1/2x3/8" adapter and a 1/2" ratchet will provide enough leverage to break the plug. It can be very tight.
good luck
good luck
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