First off. This site is great. I've been lurkin for about 3 days, reading threads that are similar to my car issues. I'm very impressed with content on this site. Great Job!!

okay, I'm very excited. I just upgraded my 88 mazda to a 96 Honda Accord Ex (145,000). I love the shape of the car from 94-97. I took me months to find one in my price range. Well, needless to say I bought it without inspection. The only thing I really knew was that I needed a right side cv joint.

It failed PA inspection 2 days ago (safty passed... ).

list of issues per my mechanic:

CVjoint - What does this usually run? I saw the DIY guide on this site. I haven't worked on cars beyond tires, brakes and oil. This looks like something I should pay to have done.


Muffler (I didn't see or hear anything when I checked the car out). Now I see that there is a tiny hole that's begining to rust out on the back side. ANd I just replaced my Mazda muffler 2 months ago!! It ran me about 200 at my mechanic. Anyone has experience with Minike?? Cheaper??


Engine Light / EGR valve - this seems to be a classic issue with these cars. I've read a lot about it on this site. I came across the thread with a letter issued from Honda about having an extened warranty on 94 -97 Emission realated problems. Has anyone had Honda comply with this updated Warrenty issue. OR , for someone with little expeirence, is testing and replacing the EGR valve really no biggie. How much is a Vacuum Gauge? I've noticed that's the tool for the job.

Front Right Turn Signal not operating - It blinks fast on my dash, but the Turn signal light isn't working? How do I Fix this? I just bought the 94 - 97 Accord repair Manual today. I took a glance at this repair, but was still a bit puzzled.

Those were the reasons it failed PA inspection. My mechanic told me that this would run about 600 for all repairs to pass. I really need to spend less as I just bought the car (with cash) and WANT TO DRIVE IT LEGALLY. I live in Philadelphia and I know I can get my inspection sitckers at cost (eh hem), But I want to take car of this Car, so I want to do it right.

Any help would be wonderful

 

Nice choice of car!
Not sure about your cv.
Muffler is an easy fix if it is not welded to the axle back pipe. Just the muffler (stock) should not be much.
Did your mechanic read the cel codes and got egr code? Ports might be plugged. Check out the DIY section on how to clean this up, I'm not sure when the warranty runs out on it, thought it was 150k miles, not too sure though.
It sounds like you just need a new bulb for whatever turn signal is not working. When one of the bulbs goes out it speeds up like that. Replace front right turn signal bulb.
Hope this helps you get started.

 

CV Joints - I had right and left done at the same time when I had about 150k on my car. Honda dealer charged me about $300, if I remember correctly. So thats a ballpark figure for ya.

Muffler - Like Slusher said, easy as long as its not welded.

EGR valve/ports - Could be that the valve isnt working, or that the valve and ports are clogged with crud. REALLY EASY. You can do it yourself, its cake, whereas the Honda dealer quoted me $200. Follow the instructions in the DIY forum, the ones that deserthonda posted from Hondadude have pictures and everything, makes it really easy. Just get some carb cleaner at the autoparts store for $3, and a dental pick or something to scrape the crud out.

Turn signal - Just as Slusher said, its just the bulb that is out, and again, thats a really easy fix.

 

thanks for the info

If the muffler isn't welded, is this something I can do myself with ease, or should I just to take it to a Minike?

 

If the muffler isn't welded on it will be held on by exhaust clamps. I would just spray the nuts on the clamps with a penetrating oil like liquid wrench or whatever, let it soak for a bit (if they look pretty rusty) then just remove clamps, unhook muffler from hangers (not tools needed in most cases), then slide muffler out. You can do it.

 

Okay,

Update. I am proud to say I successfully cleaned my EGR ports with no trouble. I printed out Hondadude's insturctions and took my time. Low and behold my ports were completly clogged. I cleaned them up and reassembled. I then cleared my ECU to make the engine light go out. Now I guess I'll wait to see if it comes on. If it does, I'll assume I'll need to replace the valve. I read somewhere, but I can't find it, that there is a way to check to see if the valve is working right. Can someone help on that.

Also..my turn signal was simply unplugged. I plugged it in and voila.... it works again.

Muffler - I bout a Tiger patch and will patch it up for now so that I can pass inspection. Then I'll deal with it later.

Now it's jsut a matter of getting the CV joint replaced. IS this something I can trust a Mchanic to do or should I consider the dealer. I thought that CV joints are a standard repair.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that my check Engine light doesn't come back on.

THANKS for all the help thus far

 

Do you know anything more about the CV joint? You say it passed 'safety' but your mechanic said there's something about them? I'm not in PA so I don't really understand the procedure. Maybe the rubber boot over a CV joint looks old & he thinks it's about ready to break open? Maybe already broken open & throwing it's grease around?

Some people clean & repack grease into the CV joints, & put new rubber boots on them. Messy messy job, I've done it on VW & Saab. With Hondas it seems to be practical to get new/rebuilt axles. It kinda depends on exactly what your mechanic saw when he inspected them.

 

So I just stopped by another shop this morning. This shop was highly reccomend via www.cartalk.com with raving reviews. I went in and talked to the owner. i explained everything as listed in this post. Right off, he said That since i've been hearing that knocking on the lef turn, it's my right side cv joint and that replacing the axel was the best thing to do. He quoted me about 235 after parts and labor. SO .. forgive my ignorance, by replacing the axel, I will have also replace the cv Joint as well? If so, on both sides?

 

The axle assembly includes the inboard & outboard CV joints. If it's already clicking, it's too late to disassemble & clean it.

Both sides? That's your call. They're both the same age & have the same miles, right? But OTOH, I'm guessing there's not a great deal of wasted labor if you do one &wait for the other one to fail.

 

Just an update. I Passed my inspection!!! Concerning the CV Joint.. they replaced my axel. That was the only repair needed. I saved about 300 bucks thanks to the help I received on this site. Thank You

I have more questions concerning genreal maintence on the car, but I will create a new post for t hose inquires.