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97 Accord starts rough on cold start

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  #1  
Old 05-31-2012 | 09:55 PM
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Default 97 Accord starts rough on cold start

Ok so every morning I start my car after it sits there all night, I turn the ignition and it starts right up, but it feels like 2 of the cylinders misfire. The engine will shake for like 5-10 seconds but if I give it a little gas it smooths itself out. The rpms will also jump and and down to like 1500 but once it warms up it goes down to 750. I recall having a similar problem before and I believe my mechanic cleaned something on the throttle body and it resolved the problem. Today when I started it, it misfired pretty bad and the CEL popped on. Went and got the codes read and it was just 2 misfire codes.

Recent repairs I have done that MAY possibly be a cause: New distributor, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs.

Problems that MAY be related: I have a tiny coolant leak from the heater core hose. I also have 2-3 drops of oil coming from the oil pan each time I park the car for a few hours.

So with all of this being said, where should I start?!
 
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Old 05-31-2012 | 10:01 PM
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I would probably fix the coolant leak, because air in the coolant system can cause idle problems.

What kind of spark plugs and spark plug wires did you use?

I would use some sort of degreaser on the engine block to get a better idea of where you car is leaking oil. I would also keep a close eye on the oil.
 
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Old 05-31-2012 | 10:10 PM
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NGK V-Power plugs and Duralast wires. My engine bay is pretty clean, I'm 100% sure the oil leak is from the oil pan and not the pressure switch or drain plug. It's seeping from all sides of the oil pan. I check the oil level every day just to be safe, and it's still good.
 
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Old 05-31-2012 | 10:34 PM
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If you replaced the original Honda wires, I might put back on the original Honda wires. They seem to last forever. That would rule out faulty new wires.

I would just inspect the usual suspects for oil leaks just to be thorough. Around the distributor, valve cover gasket, oil pressure switch, around the timing belt cover, etc. Those items are easy enough to inspect.
 
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Old 06-01-2012 | 03:01 PM
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Inspected everywhere in the engine bay for oil leaks. Only leak to be found is the oil pan. I installed a new VC gasket a week ago along with the spark plug tube seals. No leaks coming from the valve cover or in the plug wells. I'm gonna try cleaning my IACV and burping the cooling system.
 
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Old 06-01-2012 | 05:29 PM
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Common symptom of a head gasket going bad. To rule it out, start the car cold and shut it off after five seconds. Pull the plugs to see if there's coolant on one or more of them.
 
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Old 06-02-2012 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Roader
Common symptom of a head gasket going bad. To rule it out, start the car cold and shut it off after five seconds. Pull the plugs to see if there's coolant on one or more of them.
Head gasket? Wtf? I highly doubt it but I'll test it out anyway. And about cleaning the IACV...do I have to take the whole intake manifold off? Because I seriously can't get to the two bolts holding on the IACV. All I did today was burped the cooling system and got a lot of air out.
 
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Old 06-02-2012 | 07:21 AM
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IACV bolts are difficult to reach, but w/ a closed end wrench and patience is possible. PInch off coolant hoses w/ vise grips if you want to remove IACV and bench clean. I've cleaned in place w/ hoses intact, but it is painful.

good luck
 
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Old 06-02-2012 | 02:01 PM
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Texas, could you please elaborate on how you cleaned it while still intact? I don't have the correct size wrench to proceed. Thanks
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-2012 | 02:10 PM
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I used a closed end wrench (12mm from memory) to remove the two bolts.

Lean IACV back towards firewall and spray w/ throttle body cleaner. I used a toothbrush on IACV inlet screen. Also clean the ports to the IACV in throttle body.

Finally, clean both sides of throttle plate and bore around throttle plate. A brush to reach in and clean is necessary.

good luck
 


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