97 accord 2.2 VTech AUTOMATIC f22b1
I put a header, test pipe, catback exhaust and did the throttle body coolant mod where you bypass the fast idle thermo valve (block it off with a gasket) and reroute the coolant line.
Now my car does not go over 3k rpm in drive but will rev up past that in neutral.
Could my lack of back pressure, or a leak in the throttle body from my mod, or another unforseen problem cause this? There is no check engine light on.

 

Maybe the easiest thing to try is to remove the test pipe and reinstall the converter and see if the back-pressure helps on the exhaust?

Also, how did you handle the secondary O2 sensor?

 

Tonight I took the test pipe off and put a glass pack in its place. It seemed to help with back pressure. As far as the second o2 sensor I have a flange with a o2 sensor bung on it.
Anyway so I took it out for a drive tonight and put it in 3rd gear, and floored it. It went well over 3k rpm but I don't think VTech is engaging. When I put it back into "D" (4th gear) it would not go over 3k. It's almost like a rev limiter only no backfiring or engine shake or anything. It just won't go.

 

You don't really feel vtec kick in as it engages around 2000-2200 rpm. The extra gear you feel is overdrive on the transmission where the torque converter locks to the flex plate of the engine and lowers the rpm a bit.

If you have a scanner that can read live data, you can look to see if any sensors are giving strange values. I don't think the FITV delete should cause this. I'm not sure why you are deleting the FITV. All is does is allow extra air into the engine when the coolant isn't warm and warms up the engine quicker.

Since you were working near the throttle body, it is possible to switch the TPS sensor connector and MAP sensor, as they are identical connectors. The map sensor wire colors are yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel. The TPS colors grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu. Check that you didn't accidentally switch them.

 

So yeah I drove the freeway today and I could hear the VTech engage and the engine had more power. But once I went into 4th it still won't go over 3k. Can't even hit VTech in final drive
I'll check those connectors. Also I do have a live read scanner. When I bring up the live data what should I be looking for?

 

Look at the long an short term fuel trim, O2 sensors, intake air temp, map, throttle position, timing advance, any vtec sensors, also open/closed loop status. Fuel trims will tell you if the car is having to add or remove fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio correct. Really you are looking at sensors to give you some direction on what is causing the car to reach an rpm limit, because your root cause isn't obvious.

 

Ya so I took it on the freeway today and hit 3500k rpm but it's like it just doesn't have power to accelerate idk why