97 Honda Accord and ECU question
#5
4cyl -i don't know if it is the ecu or not.
It is a 97 accord that had a 95 motor put in. The car is running but the check engine light is on. It has been on since the motor change. I have changed the VSS-new,IAT-new, EGR,-new IAC,-used Cat converter-new, distributor cap-used and replaced spark plug wires that were not good as well all within the past four weeks. When the motor was first changed out it had a lurch or sputter at idle and at low speeds. It still does it just not as bad. When I changed the cat and IAT and still lurching and I took it to Autozone and it gave codes of the IAT which was brand new and the egr, IAC and an 02 sensor. I knew the IAT was brand new. So I bought the EGR new and replaced. I haven't gotten the 02 sensor because the guy at Autozone said the EGR was more crucial than the O2 sensor. Someone suggested the compatibility of the ECU with the motor. After searching for a lengthy time I decided to post. Yes I got a lemon. I had to replace the motor 6 months after I bought it as well as the transmission.
It is a 97 accord that had a 95 motor put in. The car is running but the check engine light is on. It has been on since the motor change. I have changed the VSS-new,IAT-new, EGR,-new IAC,-used Cat converter-new, distributor cap-used and replaced spark plug wires that were not good as well all within the past four weeks. When the motor was first changed out it had a lurch or sputter at idle and at low speeds. It still does it just not as bad. When I changed the cat and IAT and still lurching and I took it to Autozone and it gave codes of the IAT which was brand new and the egr, IAC and an 02 sensor. I knew the IAT was brand new. So I bought the EGR new and replaced. I haven't gotten the 02 sensor because the guy at Autozone said the EGR was more crucial than the O2 sensor. Someone suggested the compatibility of the ECU with the motor. After searching for a lengthy time I decided to post. Yes I got a lemon. I had to replace the motor 6 months after I bought it as well as the transmission.
#6
Remove the 7.5 amp backup radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute to clear the codes. Then drive the car until the check engine light returns. Then stop by the parts store to get the codes scanned.
Post the actual code number on here. They start with the letter P and have four numbers, like P1234.
Post the actual code number on here. They start with the letter P and have four numbers, like P1234.
#10
Hi. I haven't had a chance to take it by Autozone or some place like that. I did have to take it back to the mechanic because it was not wanting to start properly. I took it back because he changed the starter. He looked at the IAT and says it is burned out. It's brand new and was put in about an hour after the cat converter was replaced. The car drove ok for about two blocks and started sputtering again. Any idea what would make it burn out so fast? I wish I could win the lottery.