98 Accord 2.3L LX 4dr, 5M: Codes I had were P1381, P0171, P0133, P0420.

Symptoms started out as a hesitation just after upshift during highest load around 1500 to 2200 RPM. Then it turned into a full blown miss. Now it is missing at several points along the RPM range. Even when idling it will hard miss and act like it almost dies for a fraction of a second and then go back to idling just fine. On two or three occassions this spring, the car would not start at all upon cold fire up. After sitting for a minute or two and retrying, it fired right up like nothing happened. About 30K mi ago I had the ignition switch replaced because I would driving down the road and the car would completely quit on me. After a few minutes, I could fire it up a drive off. Apparently this was a recall per my mechanic.

My usual mechanic had the following report. "Unable to verify CYP sensor failure inside distributor. Recommend both Oxygen Sensors be replaced and secondary ignition wires with cap/rotor for misfires detected."

I am going to replace cap/rotor/wires today to see where that takes me. I had timing belt etc. replaced about 15K ago. I bought parts from local Carquest. Was thinking about buying O2 sensors from Majestic Honda as they are about $50 cheaper on each sensor for OEM products than local dealer.

Do you think O2 sensors will help if the wire/cap/rotor don't help? Any other possibilities? Thanks for your help. We are on a tight budget and need to keep the old girl rolling.

 

It is always a good idea to get the general stuff taken care of first. Are the spark plugs in good shape?

Ok here is what each code stands for:

1. P0171 - System too lean
2. P0133 - Primary O2 sensor slow response
3. P0420 - Catalytic converter below threshold
4. P1381 - CYP sensor intermittent interuption

1&2 can definitely be related.

3 shouldn't cause any driving problems due to the seconday O2 sensor. Plus the 0420 code is for the catalytic converter. Replacing the secondary O2 sensor might be a waste of money on this one.

4. The CYP sensor is mounted on the engine block under the timing belt cover. I think that the electrical connector comes out from under there.

I would check that the connectors for the CYP and O2 sensors are clean inside (spray with electrical connector cleaner) and use some dielectric grease in there. Inspect the wiring of the sensors to see if it is damaged/pinched.

Maybe you should get the codes cleared, then see which ones pop back up, since you have multiple codes.

 

Plugs were replaced at the same time as my timing belt replacement approx 15k ago with NGK's. I just replaced the spark plug wires and dist cap. I would have replaced the rotor but the one Carquest gave me was misplaced in the packaging and was the one to the other (non Hitachi) distributor. So, the other one didn't look all that bad so we scraped the contact off a little and threw it back in. I also threw a new air filter in as well.

Note: When I pulled the old spark plug wires off, the third cylinder (from the left) still had the metal connector attached. I snagged it out with needle nose pliers. I wonder if this could have been a bad connection and causing the misfire?

During my initial drive afterward I did not have any mis-fires. This is good since it has been pretty consistent lately at misfiring. I lugged it along and no misfire where prior it would have really chugged one out. I really used to notice it upon launch from a stoplight. It would have a hard time keeping RPM as I released the clutch upon full engagement and really fall on its face[:'(]. When I would upshift to second (RPM range at start of 2nd gear approx 1900 to 2100) it would do it again[:-]. My driving habits are really focused on saving gas rather than racing the guy next to me so I don't accel really hard at all. Unfortunately this is where it missed a lot. I will have to stop by AutoZone and have them check my codes so I can report back to start eliminating the O2 codes hopefully. Would be nice not to have to spend the dough on those little pieces of gold. This will be probably Monday b4 I get over there as it is about 30min from home.

Thanks for the input. Keep em coming

 

Well its still running w/out a misfire as of this morning. I sure amglad I decided to pick up the easy DIY parts before spending $700 for new cap/rotor/wires and O2 sensors. Yeah I thought it seemed a little hefty myself even though the parts were probably $400. That still leaves 4-5hrs x $60-$70/hr for labor. I didn't even spend 1/2hour changing the cap and wires and that included trying to figure out why I got the wrong rotor.

 

Depending on the year - the CYP may also be in the distributor. Mine was on my 98, required a new distributor when it went out.