It's a 98 accord LX 2.3/auto. 146k miles.
Was driving 60mph on highway when I felt the rpm going up to 5k but I'm loosing acceleration, speedometer declining down to 30mph. Check engine light greeted me.
Pulled to shoulder. turned the engine off and on, drove the car at d4 gear, stayed at 2k rpm for 20mph as when I go over 3k the engine only revs hard but no acceleration.

Took the battery off when I got home since then check engine light is off. drove the car for 10 minutes was able to go 45mph just to see if the check engine Light will pop again but it did not light up. (did not feel any problems on the gear changing while driving. Only thing I felt was misfire.)

Got hold of an ODB II pocket scan and these codes came up (scanned the car w/the check engine light off as I did not re appear after I took the battery off and drove it for 10mnts):
*code *(symbol shown on odb II)

2 codes (arrow pointing down)
p1738 (up and down arrow)
p1399 (pd up and down arrow)
MIL OFF (up and down arrow)
MONITRS ((up and down arrow)
4 Inc (up and down arrow)
Catlyst (up and down arrow)
Evap (up and down arrow)
02 Snsr (up and down arrow)
EGR (up and down arrow)
4 Ready (up and down arrow)
Misfire (up and down arrow)
Fuel (up and down arrow)
Comp (up and down arrow)
02 Htr (up arrow)

p1738 = looked thru the forum and found that i need to replace the 2nd clutch pressure switch/part# 28600-p6h-003. Will give you guys an update how it turns out.

p1399 = I'll be changing the spark plugs 1st, if nothing happens then the wires. Will give you guys an update how it turns out.

My question is what does those words mean (MIL OFF, MONITRS, 4 Inc etc...). Are they trying to explain the error codes or they are additional problems.

Im thinking about letting go of this car but I'll try to do those DIY solutions for p1738 and p1399 codes.

Thank you.

 

Have you checked ATF level? Has fluid been recently changed using Honda ATF? If not, suggest changing fluid.

You should consult users manual for your obd2 scanner. Usually Up/Down arrows mean more info available by scrolling up or down.

P1738 is an electrical fault w/ the 2nd clutch pressure switch circuit. Switch is replaceable, but fault could be wiring fault, connector fault, or faulty ECU/TCU on the 2nd clutch pressure switch circuit.

You should check pressure switch using shop manual to guide. I'm not sure what state (off/on) it should have w/ engine not running. You check to see if on/off is correct or wrong per shop manual. If wrong, replacing pressure switch should fix problem. If not, the fault lies elsewhere as indicated above, or problem is intermittent.

good luck

 

Changed atf with gen Honda around 140k. Will probably change it again this week. When I try to tinker with the car or when I take it to a mechanic.

Later I'll try to pull the 2nd clutch pressure switch to clean and tighten it. I dont have anything to test the switch or wires if they are in working condition.

I asked my mechanic about the codes and He can't pinpoint p1399 and regarding p1738 he told me the same thing 2nd clutch switch but he added might be a solenoid on the trans. I really dont have a goto mechanic, Hopefully this guy is the one as It's really hard to find a reputable one this days.
*Only had 1 experience with this shop: had all 5 brake lines under the car done by this mechanic for around 650. He explained what the lines are for and not all of them are brakes, one is evap I forgot the rest.
going by this price of repair. what do you guys think about the mechanic.

Will let you guys know how this turns out, for future reference.

thanks texashonda.

 

sweet, thanks!

 

P1738 = FIX: wiring disconnected and cleaned 2nd clutch pressure switch covered with gunk.
P17399 Does not shop up anymore after 1738 fix.

Now the bad news Trans went out.
Car will run great for 10mints after that trans starts to slip, sometimes rpm goes high but no acceleration happening also jerks suddenly.
Trans shop wants around 1.5k to re-build.