'98 Accord Fuse Issue
#11
RE: '98 Accord Fuse Issue
Probably a short somewhere. The switch is just doing it's job closing the circuit to energize it.
You need to disconnect or unplug pieces of the circuit to narrow down the location of the short. It might become a real pain.
You've already started that because you blew a fuse without touching the horn at all. (Right??)
Try stepping on the brake& holding it for awhile. Or release it & step on it again a couple times. THEN check to see if the fuse is blown. If it is then you have to further narrow down the problem.
You might be able to unplug the lamp clusters in back to rule them out. Or unplug the shift-lock solenoid at the shift lever. Basically you want to systematically unplug things so you know which part of the circuit is being energized each time you try.
If the fuse doesn't blow for the brakes, it occurs to me that when you actually shift, it energizes your back-up lights. Desert, is that on the same fuse??
You need to disconnect or unplug pieces of the circuit to narrow down the location of the short. It might become a real pain.
You've already started that because you blew a fuse without touching the horn at all. (Right??)
Try stepping on the brake& holding it for awhile. Or release it & step on it again a couple times. THEN check to see if the fuse is blown. If it is then you have to further narrow down the problem.
You might be able to unplug the lamp clusters in back to rule them out. Or unplug the shift-lock solenoid at the shift lever. Basically you want to systematically unplug things so you know which part of the circuit is being energized each time you try.
If the fuse doesn't blow for the brakes, it occurs to me that when you actually shift, it energizes your back-up lights. Desert, is that on the same fuse??
#12
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: '98 Accord Fuse Issue
ORIGINAL: JimBlake
Probably a short somewhere. The switch is just doing it's job closing the circuit to energize it.
You need to disconnect or unplug pieces of the circuit to narrow down the location of the short. It might become a real pain.
You've already started that because you blew a fuse without touching the horn at all. (Right??)
Try stepping on the brake& holding it for awhile. Or release it & step on it again a couple times. THEN check to see if the fuse is blown. If it is then you have to further narrow down the problem.
You might be able to unplug the lamp clusters in back to rule them out. Or unplug the shift-lock solenoid at the shift lever. Basically you want to systematically unplug things so you know which part of the circuit is being energized each time you try.
If the fuse doesn't blow for the brakes, it occurs to me that when you actually shift, it energizes your back-up lights. Desert, is that on the same fuse??
Probably a short somewhere. The switch is just doing it's job closing the circuit to energize it.
You need to disconnect or unplug pieces of the circuit to narrow down the location of the short. It might become a real pain.
You've already started that because you blew a fuse without touching the horn at all. (Right??)
Try stepping on the brake& holding it for awhile. Or release it & step on it again a couple times. THEN check to see if the fuse is blown. If it is then you have to further narrow down the problem.
You might be able to unplug the lamp clusters in back to rule them out. Or unplug the shift-lock solenoid at the shift lever. Basically you want to systematically unplug things so you know which part of the circuit is being energized each time you try.
If the fuse doesn't blow for the brakes, it occurs to me that when you actually shift, it energizes your back-up lights. Desert, is that on the same fuse??
Yeah, more than likely there is a short somewhere. It happens immediately when I change the fuse underhood; step on the break and get out of "P" then BAM! It blows. I didn't touch the horn at all. Let me ask this. This is how it first began; one day all of a sudden last week my "Brake Lamp" the once above the hood goes out; I disregard it and let it go for a few days 'cause I don't have the money to replace it right now 'til Friday. 2 days later fuse blows. Now what I'm thinking is if I replace the "Brake Lamp", then fuse, maybe it'll fix itself? I think since it started with the Break Lamp going out it may have affected everything else. But I'll try disconnecting stuff tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
#13
RE: '98 Accord Fuse Issue
Sounds like you weren't paying attention. Try a new fuse, then step on the brake repeatedly to light up the brake lamps. Press the button on the shifter but DO NOT shift. I want to know if it blows the fuse without lighting up the white backup lamps.
Your center-high stop light may not have a burned-out bulb. Maybe it's a short in the socket. Got a multi-meter??
Your center-high stop light may not have a burned-out bulb. Maybe it's a short in the socket. Got a multi-meter??
#14
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: '98 Accord Fuse Issue
ORIGINAL: JimBlake
Sounds like you weren't paying attention. Try a new fuse, then step on the brake repeatedly to light up the brake lamps. Press the button on the shifter but DO NOT shift. I want to know if it blows the fuse without lighting up the white backup lamps.
Your center-high stop light may not have a burned-out bulb. Maybe it's a short in the socket. Got a multi-meter??
Sounds like you weren't paying attention. Try a new fuse, then step on the brake repeatedly to light up the brake lamps. Press the button on the shifter but DO NOT shift. I want to know if it blows the fuse without lighting up the white backup lamps.
Your center-high stop light may not have a burned-out bulb. Maybe it's a short in the socket. Got a multi-meter??
I tried doing what you stated above, pressed on the break 2-3 times, whenever I replace the fuse and start the car the "Break Lamp" indicator lights up, now as soon as I stepped on the break pedal it went out before I even was gonna push on the button to test out your theory. I checked under the hood and sure enough the fuse had blown. So it appears to be blowing when I step on break, before I even have the chance to click on the shift button. I need to buy more fused, but I'm going to disconnect each light at a time 'til I determine which one it is if possible. And no I don't have a multimeter, would Autozone have one to use? I believe so.
#15
RE: '98 Accord Fuse Issue
I've seen cheap multimeters for like $10 or $20at places like AutoZone or RadioShack. It's an important tool to have. Would you install your CAI, shocks, or exhaust if you only owned a pliers & a hammer?
Also...
I no longer have my '98 Helm shop manual which would have told me every stupid little electricalconnector in that circuit. You could find which wire harness to unplug & measure resistance in the brake-lamp circuit. It'll probably measure very low (short circuit). Then unplug stuff & measure again to narrow it down without blowing another dozen fuses.
Also...
I no longer have my '98 Helm shop manual which would have told me every stupid little electricalconnector in that circuit. You could find which wire harness to unplug & measure resistance in the brake-lamp circuit. It'll probably measure very low (short circuit). Then unplug stuff & measure again to narrow it down without blowing another dozen fuses.
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