98 Accord vibrations and clunks
#1
98 Accord vibrations and clunks
My 1998 accord EX 2.3 L 4 cyl AT sedan w/ 248k miles has been having vibrations on the front for the last year or so.
Vibration is most pronounced at high speed >70-75 mph as if there is a resonance effect at this speed. I have not pushed it >80 to see if vibrations change. When it's wet it feels like the car loses traction due the vibrations-and sometimes I feel like one or both of the wheels are "hunting" intermittently from side to side. There is a pulsation with braking, noticed only above ~50mph. The upper control arms squeak at the body bushings under stress of take off and braking, and also on bumps. These were replaced about 4 months ago w/ AZ parts-in fact, I have changed them twice within the last year. They would squeak at the bushing in the wheel well. Ball joints on uCAs are tight.
2 months ago due to the frustation of all these vibrations, I replaced w/ AZ parts: Both LCAs, both lower BJs, sway links and bushings, both outer tie rods, all 4 shocks/spring assemblies. All 4 tires, and R. axle replaced 4 months ago and recently spin balanced. All brake Pads and front rotors 3 months old. Wheels are OE alloy and my tire shop says they are out of round but I'm uncertain whether I should change them or look to suspension for the problem given brake pulsation @ high speed, fast wearing of front uCA bushings which makes me wonder about suspension/steering.
In the rear, both wheels have a clunking sound when going over bumps. I replaced both shock/assemblies with amzon prts 2 weeks ago---> no change! All BJs seem and links feels tight. Rear sway bar links are intact (replaced 3 years ago), not sure about bushings. However, I believe I hear the same sound coming from the new struts if I jack up the car with rear wheels off, lift the rear knuckle to compress the shock then allow everything to free fall-->clunks at the end of downward travel! Since these shock are "new" so I'm not sure what's happening here...
At this point, I'm disappointed in the diagnostic skills of the mechanics around here-and want to know if I should be thinking about the steering rack, front bearing or other suspension parts to be replaced first as the cause of the vibrations. I would hate to buy wheels and the problem is still there. Thanks for your input.
Vibration is most pronounced at high speed >70-75 mph as if there is a resonance effect at this speed. I have not pushed it >80 to see if vibrations change. When it's wet it feels like the car loses traction due the vibrations-and sometimes I feel like one or both of the wheels are "hunting" intermittently from side to side. There is a pulsation with braking, noticed only above ~50mph. The upper control arms squeak at the body bushings under stress of take off and braking, and also on bumps. These were replaced about 4 months ago w/ AZ parts-in fact, I have changed them twice within the last year. They would squeak at the bushing in the wheel well. Ball joints on uCAs are tight.
2 months ago due to the frustation of all these vibrations, I replaced w/ AZ parts: Both LCAs, both lower BJs, sway links and bushings, both outer tie rods, all 4 shocks/spring assemblies. All 4 tires, and R. axle replaced 4 months ago and recently spin balanced. All brake Pads and front rotors 3 months old. Wheels are OE alloy and my tire shop says they are out of round but I'm uncertain whether I should change them or look to suspension for the problem given brake pulsation @ high speed, fast wearing of front uCA bushings which makes me wonder about suspension/steering.
In the rear, both wheels have a clunking sound when going over bumps. I replaced both shock/assemblies with amzon prts 2 weeks ago---> no change! All BJs seem and links feels tight. Rear sway bar links are intact (replaced 3 years ago), not sure about bushings. However, I believe I hear the same sound coming from the new struts if I jack up the car with rear wheels off, lift the rear knuckle to compress the shock then allow everything to free fall-->clunks at the end of downward travel! Since these shock are "new" so I'm not sure what's happening here...
At this point, I'm disappointed in the diagnostic skills of the mechanics around here-and want to know if I should be thinking about the steering rack, front bearing or other suspension parts to be replaced first as the cause of the vibrations. I would hate to buy wheels and the problem is still there. Thanks for your input.
Last edited by aphelion1736; 09-29-2012 at 01:26 PM. Reason: typos
#2
Have you inspected the radius rod bushings.
If the tire shop has told you the rims are bad, you might try getting some from a bone yard - I'd go with two cheap steel rims and see if this improves the feel. Like you I wouldn't want to spend big $'s to find out they are/were wrong.
If the tire shop has told you the rims are bad, you might try getting some from a bone yard - I'd go with two cheap steel rims and see if this improves the feel. Like you I wouldn't want to spend big $'s to find out they are/were wrong.
#3
I had a long running vibration problem that began w/ a CV axle replacement (AZ). I eventually replaced front/rear motor mounts, balanced tires, and replaced both axles under warranty w/o fixing the vibration under acceleration (worse under acceleration at higher speeds). Problem was finally resolved when I replaced both front axles w/ Raxles product. Both the Raxles were balanced and had dampner weights in place. None of the AZ CV axles had the dampners.
Suspect you have two problems; wheel vibration and pulsation under braking. Later is usually caused by unevenly worn brake rotors. It will sometimes only appear under heavy braking at speed.
good luck
Suspect you have two problems; wheel vibration and pulsation under braking. Later is usually caused by unevenly worn brake rotors. It will sometimes only appear under heavy braking at speed.
good luck
#4
I had clunking noise from the rear suspension about 1 1/2 years ago, my mechanic looked it over and ended up lubing up the bushings with silicone and it went away until recently. But when I looked it over a couple of weeks ago, the sway bar and links were pealing paint and rusty. I suspect now that the bushings and fittings for the sway bar are warn and ill fitting, causing it to clunk again.
You might want to try the silicone lubricant fix on the sway bar.
You might want to try the silicone lubricant fix on the sway bar.
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