98 Power Window problems
#1
98 Power Window problems
Hey guys and gals, looking for some help with this problem..
98 Accord sedan w/ 4 cyl..Mom has had the car for some time with the problems and recently had given the car to my son. So he is driving it and I have been fixing things as I go. I just had to replace the ignition switch, as the car would keep stalling on him and the recall had already been done anyway..Next is to replace the rack and pinion, as it has went out ( changed pump a long time ago and didn't fix it)
So on to the window. I have tried to research with no luck and even tried the intermittent wiper trick (put the ring in the middle)..I have tried to troubleshoot it myself with the Haynes wiring manual and I get lost and honestly not that good with a voltmeter to know what i should read and when..
The drivers window does not work, nor do any of the other windows from the drivers switch. The "window lock" does work though..I can reach over to any other door and use the window as it should, but never anything from the drivers door. I had even purchased a whole switch unit from Honda and replaced it with no luck. I have looked at all the fuses and all good also..I was going to try and hotwire the window motor to see if it would work, but I noticed it has 4 prongs on the connecter to the motor?
Anyone have the slightest idea as to what would cause this?
Thanks for any help
98 Accord sedan w/ 4 cyl..Mom has had the car for some time with the problems and recently had given the car to my son. So he is driving it and I have been fixing things as I go. I just had to replace the ignition switch, as the car would keep stalling on him and the recall had already been done anyway..Next is to replace the rack and pinion, as it has went out ( changed pump a long time ago and didn't fix it)
So on to the window. I have tried to research with no luck and even tried the intermittent wiper trick (put the ring in the middle)..I have tried to troubleshoot it myself with the Haynes wiring manual and I get lost and honestly not that good with a voltmeter to know what i should read and when..
The drivers window does not work, nor do any of the other windows from the drivers switch. The "window lock" does work though..I can reach over to any other door and use the window as it should, but never anything from the drivers door. I had even purchased a whole switch unit from Honda and replaced it with no luck. I have looked at all the fuses and all good also..I was going to try and hotwire the window motor to see if it would work, but I noticed it has 4 prongs on the connecter to the motor?
Anyone have the slightest idea as to what would cause this?
Thanks for any help
#2
Got a paperclip?
See pic of the pins for the drivers multiplex. Remove to connector and look at the wire harness
To make the drivers window go down. Jump A11 to A12 and A10 to A1.....let us know what happens...again the window should go down.
See pic of the pins for the drivers multiplex. Remove to connector and look at the wire harness
To make the drivers window go down. Jump A11 to A12 and A10 to A1.....let us know what happens...again the window should go down.
#6
So now that we see the window motor is not shot, any idea as to what would cause the switches not to work from the driver door? even with a brand new switch cluster..
Colton (son) told me earlier, that the LR window went down by itself also? He reached in the back and had to roll it up
Could this all just be a grounding issue?
I hate electrical problems..LOL
Colton (son) told me earlier, that the LR window went down by itself also? He reached in the back and had to roll it up
Could this all just be a grounding issue?
I hate electrical problems..LOL
#7
And if you can believe this....I HATE electrical issues as well, consider myself a "newbie" with them.
Do you have a volt meter? The "jump" was a quick and dirty test. I'm "thinking" you have a bad ground or a bad switch, yes I know you replaced it but the jumping of the wires, what the switch does, leads me towards this.....someone might chime in with more info.
Do you have a volt meter? The "jump" was a quick and dirty test. I'm "thinking" you have a bad ground or a bad switch, yes I know you replaced it but the jumping of the wires, what the switch does, leads me towards this.....someone might chime in with more info.
#8
Yes I have a volt meter that work gives us( time warner cable), but never been very good with them..I can do the basics of AC,DC, Ohms,etc...
However, knowing what to look for and test is the trick with me..
I have tried to use it once before on the car and never really got anywhere. Any time i would try to "read" something, it was like i just touched the 2 leads together, acting like it was just shorting out..
I can swing by a junkyard and try to snag a switch if they have any around..I would rather do that, then to pick one up from Honda again...
However, knowing what to look for and test is the trick with me..
I have tried to use it once before on the car and never really got anywhere. Any time i would try to "read" something, it was like i just touched the 2 leads together, acting like it was just shorting out..
I can swing by a junkyard and try to snag a switch if they have any around..I would rather do that, then to pick one up from Honda again...
#9
If the bone yard has one for cheap then I would do that.
The tests for the windows based upon what you have told us so far would be checking for continuity to ground - resistance. And then check for voltage readings - 12v....like you touched the leads to the battery and read something ~ 12.5v.
Could be something in the wires....but based upon the fact you jump the wires and the window worked.....I'm with the switch, yet I find it hard to believe the new one is bad, so yes, I'm a bit confused on this one.
I can give the "other" jumps to make the rest of the windows go down - and up this time - if needed.
Please let us know what you find and what works out in the end......too many never come back and we never know
EDIT: Did I tell you...I hate electrial issues...again.
The tests for the windows based upon what you have told us so far would be checking for continuity to ground - resistance. And then check for voltage readings - 12v....like you touched the leads to the battery and read something ~ 12.5v.
Could be something in the wires....but based upon the fact you jump the wires and the window worked.....I'm with the switch, yet I find it hard to believe the new one is bad, so yes, I'm a bit confused on this one.
I can give the "other" jumps to make the rest of the windows go down - and up this time - if needed.
Please let us know what you find and what works out in the end......too many never come back and we never know
EDIT: Did I tell you...I hate electrial issues...again.
Last edited by poorman212; 06-12-2012 at 07:47 PM.
#10
BTW- I hate electrical issues also....i mean i really hate them