You have to click on the hyperlink: Attachment 6961 in my last Post 278742 to see the graphic. Source: Installing 1998-2002 Honda Accord Ignition Switch - iFixit The ignition test sequence depicted in the DIY hyperlink provided is incorrect.

The correct testing method may be found in this Troubleshooting Guide: How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura)
When testing the ignition switch for continuity in the Start position, the leads need to be connected to #1 and #2, and then, you need to check #1 and #3.

The ignition switch replaced in 2005 under warranty is working perfectly fine, but I replaced the ignition switch anyway. Replacing the ignition switch did not fix the problem. When attempting to start the engine, a short is created and the car loses all power.

1. Could this be the main fuse? I visually checked the main fuse and all the other fuses, and they appear to be fine.
2. Could this be another bad main relay? The main relay has been replaced twice in the past last year.
3. The battery is putting out a lot of juice. I even tried jumping the car this morning to make sure it has more than enough juice. The problem replicated itself again. Could having too much juice be the problem?
4. No check engine light comes on that would indicate an error code for me to determine the point of the short.
5. Could it be a shorted starter?
6. Could it be a shorted or faulty solenoid?
7. Where else in the ignition system could there be a short?

Thanks.

 

If you look at the testing, all power to #2 and #3 are turned off when trying to start the car.

If you have an assistant, check that the small wire going to the starter is getting 12V when trying to start the car.

 

It's not the starter, solenoid, or ignition coil. Fortunately, the timing belt is still intact and the problems are not related to a frozen engine. Soaked the positive terminals in a baking soda and water solution to clean them up and to improve the connection and flow of current. I am having it towed to the garage to have the timing belt replaced and to finish troubleshooting the source of the short.

 

+1, this really sounds like a bad battery (at rest it might have 12.7 but under load?) or a bad battey connection......if you were having to clean the terminals?

 

Illustration incorrectly indicates connectivity at 1 & 4, and 1 & 5, when the ignition switch is turned to the "START" position. Pay close attention to the wire colors in the CORRECTION below. Connectivity should occur at 1 & 2, and 1 & 3 when ignition switch is turned to the "START" position.

Source for Correction: How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura)

Troubleshooting resistance at the harness connectors:

Tools required: an analog Ohmmeter or a DMM and a Phillips and a flathead screwdriver.

1. For your safety and accuracy, remove the negative battery terminal first. (The radio memory may be lost.)

2. Follow the harness from ignition switch to the fuse box. Disconnect the ignition switch wire harness connector from the fuse box. (Alternatively, you may leave the harness connected and take the readings at the back of the ignition switch if you're certain the harness isn't the problem.)

3. Set the DMM to measure Ohm or continuity.

4. With Ignition Switch in the "ON" Position, connectivity should occur when touching the red probe of the a DMM to the clip at the harness connector that corresponds to the large white wire [Clip 1] and while touching the black probe of the a DMM to the clip at the harness connector that corresponds to the black wire with the yellow stripe [Clip 2].

5. Keep DMM probes in same position as in 4 above and turn the Ignition Switch to the "Start" Position, and you should continue to observe continuity.

6. While leaving the red probe of the DMM touching the white wire [Clip 1], connect the black probe to the clip at the harness connector that corresponds to the black wire with the white stripe [Clip 3]. Now, turn the Ignition Switch to the "Start" Position, you should observe continuity.

If you don't find the continuity replace the electrical switch. Re-keying your locks is not necessary.

If you don't find the wire colors as specified on your ignition switch, stop here and consult your service manual.

 

PROBLEM ISOLATED:
In June of 2011, an intermittent short blew out the Ignition Relay and the Main Relay 1 & 2.
In March of 2012, the intermittent short blew out the Ignition Relay again.
Current, April 2012, the intermittent short became a permanent short.
Solution: Clean battery cables, install new battery cable clamps, spray with a sealer to prevent conductivity through the air.