99 V6 accord cranks/fires but wont idle
#1
99 V6 accord cranks/fires but wont idle
99 accord v6 cranks fires but won't run. Have fuel at fuel rail and spark at every cylinder. Have replaced main relay, fuel pump, spark plugs, cap and rotor, battery, fuel pressure regulator and there is 10 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank. No code or dash lights. Motor runs a bit longer after spraying car cleaner in throttle body. car died on my father, started up and made it almost home and it died again. Started up made it to the drive way and died and wouldnt restart. been sitting for 2 months before I could get to town to help him, he's 75 Help!!!! Daughter totaled her car and trying to help my dad get his old Honda running for her to use.
#2
Can you keep the engine running when spraying carb cleaner into the air intake?
Did your father have any recent work done to the car or notice any issues before the car stalled out?
The car running for a bit on carb cleaner points towards a fuel delivery problem. The could be the fuel pump, fuel injectors, or wiring. You'll need to do some testing to figure out the root cause.
Did you replace just the fuel pump, or the entire assembly?
Did your father have any recent work done to the car or notice any issues before the car stalled out?
The car running for a bit on carb cleaner points towards a fuel delivery problem. The could be the fuel pump, fuel injectors, or wiring. You'll need to do some testing to figure out the root cause.
Did you replace just the fuel pump, or the entire assembly?
#3
We replaced just the fuel pump and have great fuel pressure at the fuel pump with the key on. I had to leave to get back to where I live for work and he was working on it by himself so couldn't spray to keep it running... did some more research when I got home and I think it may be the ecu. Hes going to check that tomorrow.
I was wondering If it could be an injector problem. but it fires off every time even without the carb cleaner, just doesn't stay running as long.
I also had him try starting it with the pedal to the floor and it did idle roughly for as long as it did with the carb cleaner.
The car hasn't been worked on except for oil changes since my father got the cat 6 years ago
thought timing belt but tested that and its fine
I was wondering If it could be an injector problem. but it fires off every time even without the carb cleaner, just doesn't stay running as long.
I also had him try starting it with the pedal to the floor and it did idle roughly for as long as it did with the carb cleaner.
The car hasn't been worked on except for oil changes since my father got the cat 6 years ago
thought timing belt but tested that and its fine
#4
It does sound like fuel is not getting into the engine.
I'd recommend the easiest test is to unplug the electrical connector to the fuel injector. The yel/blk wire is the 12V constant power. All the injectors should have this wire color. I may be wrong on the wire color, so verify the wire color that is the same to each injector. Use a test light to make sure the injectors are getting constant power to a good ground the whole time you are cranking. A volt meter will work too, but the test light is a better test, since it draws more current.
The other wire to each injector is a different color, and is controlled by the PCM to ground each injector to open them..
I'd recommend the easiest test is to unplug the electrical connector to the fuel injector. The yel/blk wire is the 12V constant power. All the injectors should have this wire color. I may be wrong on the wire color, so verify the wire color that is the same to each injector. Use a test light to make sure the injectors are getting constant power to a good ground the whole time you are cranking. A volt meter will work too, but the test light is a better test, since it draws more current.
The other wire to each injector is a different color, and is controlled by the PCM to ground each injector to open them..
#6
Another possibility might be a flaky ignition switch. Not very rare in this generation of Accord...
Try this... Turn the key to RUN, but don't immediately continue to START. Do all the dashboard lights come on? If you turn the key back just a bit, do the lights turn off? Or do you have to turn the key just a tiny bit forwards to make the dashboard lights come on? Do you have to find just the right sweet-spot to get all the warning lights to come on?
Start it, but when it fires, don't release the key all the way. Allow the key to turn back certainly far enough so the starter quits running, but not quite all the way back to the RUN position, but hold it just a bit forward to see if it keeps running like this.
Try this... Turn the key to RUN, but don't immediately continue to START. Do all the dashboard lights come on? If you turn the key back just a bit, do the lights turn off? Or do you have to turn the key just a tiny bit forwards to make the dashboard lights come on? Do you have to find just the right sweet-spot to get all the warning lights to come on?
Start it, but when it fires, don't release the key all the way. Allow the key to turn back certainly far enough so the starter quits running, but not quite all the way back to the RUN position, but hold it just a bit forward to see if it keeps running like this.
#8
It does sound like fuel is not getting into the engine.
I'd recommend the easiest test is to unplug the electrical connector to the fuel injector. The yel/blk wire is the 12V constant power. All the injectors should have this wire color. I may be wrong on the wire color, so verify the wire color that is the same to each injector. Use a test light to make sure the injectors are getting constant power to a good ground the whole time you are cranking. A volt meter will work too, but the test light is a better test, since it draws more current.
The other wire to each injector is a different color, and is controlled by the PCM to ground each injector to open them..
I'd recommend the easiest test is to unplug the electrical connector to the fuel injector. The yel/blk wire is the 12V constant power. All the injectors should have this wire color. I may be wrong on the wire color, so verify the wire color that is the same to each injector. Use a test light to make sure the injectors are getting constant power to a good ground the whole time you are cranking. A volt meter will work too, but the test light is a better test, since it draws more current.
The other wire to each injector is a different color, and is controlled by the PCM to ground each injector to open them..
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