Thanks, poorman! From the looks of everything, I'll probably need to make some extra coffee tomorrow, haha. The MC looks easy enough to replace *knock on wood*

I'm just not feeling very confident when it comes to working with the ABS system since I'm not the handiest. One step at a time I guess! You guys have been great help! Thanks again.

 

Yes, extra coffee is always needed when I get "into something"

Pretty sure there is a "how to" on the ABS in the "Common DIY and Info. Threads" sticky at the top of this section. So when you get ready for that - look there and see how it is done. Then if you have more questions - well let us know

 

I do have one more question. After reading the service bulletins, I know what may be the cause of the ABS leak. Probable cause is the o-ring underneath the accumulator being damaged. Since I can only find a part number, would you happen to know the size of the o-ring? I have quite a few lying around, and was thinking about just using one of those instead of having to order one.

 

Part is available from Honda. I've matched orings before and had some successes and some failures (not perfect match).

When I looked for the part, I found that LX doesn't offer ABS system parts and only found the part under 4dr EX, ABS Modulator. Do you have an LX?

good luck

 

I have an LX two door. You think it could possibly be universal?

Update:
Changed the MC, and the brake pedal isn't soft anymore. Just have to bleed the system! Oh joy of joys. I tightened the plugs on the modulator, and doesn't constantly whir anymore. Still throwing the 1 3 and 1 4 codes, so the next step will be bleeding the reservoir. I read in one of the service bulletins that the bleeder needs to be set to the specified torque. Don't have a torque wrench, so will that be a problem?

I'll be taking it for a test spin, let it set overnight and look for leaks tomorrow.

 

Not necessary to torque bleeder, but don't overtighten, just firm will seal fine. You can estimate torque by "feel". Wrench has .5ft leverage, so for 15 ft-lbs, you pull about 30 lbs. I try to think of this on smaller bolts and nuts to avoid overtorquing.

I guess LX's must come w/ ABS, and Majestic Honda parts menu is just wrong.

good luck

 

Well, I took a test spin around town last night. The brakes are the tiniest bit softer than what they used to be (before the MC issue), but they work nonetheless. I'm thinking one more bleed and it'll be good as gold.

Weirdest thing happened during the bleed procedure though. I decided to purchase a vacuum bleeder to make things go by a little faster, and when I bled the RR, barely anything came out. It was as if it was clogged. I loosened the bleeder valve quite a bit just to see if SOMETHING would come out, and it was still at a trickle. The others bled fine though.


When it comes to the ABS system, my friend who was helping me decided to open the bleeder valve to "relieve some pressure". I heard a small pop, and then words that shouldn't be repeated. He definitely opened it up too much. I checked the reservoir, and everything seemed fine. However, while driving it, the ABS light wouldn't turn off when I started it up. I parked it, let it sit for about a half hour, then things went back to normal. The constant whir, and ABS light coming on about a minute or two after.

 

You may have a bit of debris (rust) in the bleeder preventing a good flow.

Suggest removing and blowing bleeder clean, clean threads, and reinstall, or replace the bleeder. You will get a little loss of fluid due to gravity drainage while the plug is out, so minimize the time removed.

It might clear the bleeder by traditional pressure bleeding, pump the pedal hard, and crack the RR bleeder.

good luck

 

I kinda had a feeling that was the problem because when I went to loosen the bleeder, it was covered in mud, and the entire area is pretty dirty.

Something interesting happened today. Brakes went really soft again, so I pulled off to the side of the road, and the ABS fluid went down dramatically! Even after I did the bleed, the level was hovering right below the max line. It's now down to below the minimum level, and there aren't any massive leaks. Still just the drip leak because of the o-ring.

*scratches head* Looking on the bright side of things, at least I'm learning about brake systems! Hahaha.

 

Just out of curiosity (I think I may already know the answer to this), is there a way to replace the o-ring from the accumulator without removing the entire ABS? Or could sealant be a "quick fix"?