General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

AC Help Needed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-28-2011 | 10:21 AM
dalejamin's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50
Default AC Help Needed

One again, I am without AC and could use some advice. Here's what I know so far. The fuses (under hood and dash) are good. The condenser fan turns on/off with the AC switch. However, I don't hear the clutch on the compressor engage. I ran a wire from the battery to the compressor, and it kicked on. That was only for test, and I disconnected it immediately afterwards. What should I check next? Pressure switch?
 
  #2  
Old 06-28-2011 | 12:05 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Default

Try removing the AC pressure switch connector, shorting the two pins w/ wire jumper, start engine, and turn AC on briefly, then off. If AC compressor engages, then likely the system refrigerant pressure is too low.

Leak must be found, repaired, and system recharged. Look for leaks under the hood by searching for a dirty oily accumulation around hose criimps, compressor clutch area, connections, condensor face. If you see a dirty, oily spot a leak is indicated.

You can download a 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-2011 | 12:24 PM
dalejamin's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50
Default

Thanks! I was kind of thinking along those lines. I'll look for leaks next and check the pressure switch. If the switch works and refrigerant pressure is too low for the compressor to kick on, how do I go about charging it?
 
  #4  
Old 06-28-2011 | 06:17 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Default

Two approaches to leak testing.

First method. A shop puts in a little refrigerant and pressurize w/ Nitrogen and search for leaks w/ sniffer and bubble mix leak detector.

The second method is to charge the system w/ a dyed refrigerant charge, run system, and look for dye to indicate leaks. Some leaks (evaporator leaks) will not be detected since evaporator is not accessible for inspection.

Once leak is located, repair, and recharge.

If you plan to DIY, suggest reading recharge instructions on autoacforum.com, tips & FAQ's.

Buying a can of R134a at Walmart and recharging is a waste of money and could damage your system.

good luck
 
  #5  
Old 07-24-2011 | 12:05 AM
dalejamin's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50
Default

I removed the AC pressure switch connector and shorted the two pins w/ wire jumper, started engine, and turned the AC on and then off, but the AC compressor didn't engage.

If I run a hot wire directly from the battery, I can hear a click, which I'm assuming is the clutch, but the compressor doesn't engage.

Next step?
 
  #6  
Old 07-24-2011 | 12:45 AM
PAhonda's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,988
From: Houston, TX
Default

In your first post, you said that running battery voltage to the compressor allowed the compressor to engage. Now the compressor will not engage?

When the engine is running, and you turn on the a/c inside the car, do both fans turn on?

Also, unplug the compressor, and see if the red wire has 12V to ground using a volt meter.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-2011 | 08:15 AM
dalejamin's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50
Default

When I ran the hot wire over, the clutch would click but the compressor never engaged. Both fans run when the AC is turned on. I'll check the red wire on the compressor this afternoon and post an update.
 
  #8  
Old 07-24-2011 | 09:44 AM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Default

If you confirm that 12v is available at the compressor when pressure switch is shorted, but does not engage then compressor clutch gap is too large or compressor clutch field has internal short.

Excessive clutch gap can be confirmed by rapping the clutch face sharply (but very carefully) w/ a hefty stick. If compressor engages and runs, excess clutch gap is confirmed.

Post what you find and we'll get into repair.

good luck
 
  #9  
Old 07-25-2011 | 06:08 PM
dalejamin's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50
Default

I confirmed voltage at the compressor and carefully rapped on the clutch face, with no luck. Bad compressor?
 
  #10  
Old 07-25-2011 | 06:32 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Default

With engine stopped, try to rotate the compressor clutch (inner face) by hand. If it is difficult to rotate or you fill a grinding resistance, compressor may be siezing.

If it turns easily, the clutch coil is probably open. A new clutch coil can be purchased, but it may be easier to find an entire compressor/coil assembly as a used part. You can pull clutch coil from donor and install on your compressor. Check car-part.com and ebay for clutch assy or compressor/clutch assy.

good luck
 


Quick Reply: AC Help Needed



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:19 PM.