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  #21  
Old 03-18-2012, 09:17 PM
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When you shorting the bottom sensor, you are getting the proper response. Only the passenger fan will turn on when you turn the key off.

You are not getting the proper response with the top sensor. Both fans should turn on with the key in the II position.

You need to determine if the problem is with the wiring (voltage and ground) or the fan motor.

The simplest way to test is to unplug the driver's side fan, short that connector, then measure the voltage across that connector. You should have 12V.
 
  #22  
Old 03-18-2012, 11:27 PM
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Alright, thanks man, I'll try this tomorrow.

I also should mention that I have a camshaft/balance shaft leak that leaked on my compressor pretty hardcore. There's a wire on the front of the compressor that is attached via a screw which was caked with oil. I cleaned it off but there's still some gunk under the the little metal plate where the wire is screwed on.

Is it possible this could be shorting out the connection or messing with it somehow?
 

Last edited by Hondahonda; 03-19-2012 at 02:30 AM.
  #23  
Old 03-19-2012, 07:42 PM
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See if this helps....again the 5th gen's are almost the exact same.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...similar-44973/
 
  #24  
Old 03-20-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
See if this helps....again the 5th gen's are almost the exact same.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...similar-44973/
Thanks, we were going to test that fan yesterday but it was raining. Hopefully it clear up today so we can try it.

I don't think my driver's fan is coming on at all. Yesterday I was in the drive-thru and my car heated up to the half-way mark on the temperature gauge(not sure what temp that is?), which reminded me last time I was in the same place in September and my car got all the way up in to the red for a few moments. I ended up shutting my car off and had to walk over to the local store to buy some antifreeze. I think there's a small leak somewhere, probably in one of the hoses, we didn't replace them when we did the radiator. Unless, god forbid, I reached the evaporation point on the antifreeze?

This time I kicked on the A/C at the halfway mark and it started cooling down a little bit. If I kick on the defroster will that turn on the fan too?

I hate to speculate, but I certainly want to make sure car doesn't overheat or radiator blow up in the meantime, as I have to drive it to work.
 
  #25  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:35 PM
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I'm going to test the power to the connector of the driver's side fan with the a/c on.

I have an innova volt meter, but I can't find how to do it. Do I have it set on battery load test or AC or DC current? Not sure what the car runs on. I've never used one of these before
 
  #26  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:43 PM
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You want DC voltage.

If your meter has different numbers under the DC setting, you want to select the lowest number that is greater than 12. Mine has a 20 that will read from 2-20V accurately.

Try testing for voltage across your battery terminals. You should have around 12.6 volts.
 
  #27  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
You want DC voltage.

If your meter has different numbers under the DC setting, you want to select the lowest number that is greater than 12. Mine has a 20 that will read from 2-20V accurately.

Try testing for voltage across your battery terminals. You should have around 12.6 volts.
I tested the battery, and I got 12.3 volts.

ok. With the car on on thermo sensor A I got 6.99 volts. Key off on thermo sensor B I got 7 volts. This sounds about right.

I tested fan the circuit with the key in and shorted sensor B and it registered no reading...not sure what this tells us. How do I check the ground?

Actually, I'm not sure if I testing the right one. I tested the plug that's right next to the relays(Blue and white wire). There's one below the relays, which plug is that?
 

Last edited by Hondahonda; 03-20-2012 at 08:17 PM.
  #28  
Old 03-21-2012, 09:31 AM
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Have you checked the fuse to the fan- #34, 15amp (I think) in the underhood fuse panel.

Next would be checking the wires into the relay to verify if you are getting the correct inputs to the relay.

KO-Thermo A (lower hose, t-stat housing) wires jumped

WHT- should have 12v
GRN - continuity to ground
YEL/WHT - should have 12v

if this is true and the relay is working- 12v to the motor should be thru the BLU/YEL wire.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 03-21-2012 at 09:36 AM.
  #29  
Old 03-21-2012, 06:29 PM
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Follow the wire from the driver's side fan motor to the electrical connector. You want to test that electrical connector. The wire colors should be blu/yel and black.

What were you testing when you got 7 volts? What were the wire colors?
 
  #30  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Follow the wire from the driver's side fan motor to the electrical connector. You want to test that electrical connector. The wire colors should be blu/yel and black.

What were you testing when you got 7 volts? What were the wire colors?
Edit: The blue/yellow and black wire connector is the one I tested.

I got 7 volts from the green connector going to the thermo sensor behind the engine with the engine off and I got 7 volts from the thermo sensor in front of the engine when the car was on w/ power off. I'm not sure I tested any wire, I just put the prongs inside the green connector to the metal tabs to test for voltage.


My friend says he can wire it where my driver's side fan always comes on when the passenger one does. Is this a bad idea?

Update: The wire that connects to the fan also splits off to my lights which don't work on low beams. I'm not sure if theirs any connection there. When I have the switch set on low beams I have no lights, but I have high beams.
 

Last edited by Hondahonda; 03-21-2012 at 11:17 PM.


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