The electrical connector for the fan you are describing is the proper connector.

Your temperature sensors should be getting 12V, not 7V.

Redo the test, but touch the red volt meter lead to the pin with the green wire (or green/white wire on temp sensor B). Touch the black volt meter lead to a bolt on the valve cover. Let us know what voltage you are reading.

I advise you not to mess with the cars wiring. This will make things difficult to diagnose if more problems pop up.

 

Well, my meter must be crap because it doesn't have a DC voltage above 10. So that probably accounts for it reading wrong. (Ac does a battery load test up to 12 volts though.

I'm going to put off diagnosing it till I get a better reader.

Here's a picture of my crap reader

 

This is a very nice auto-ranging multimeter. It should measure car voltages just fine. Read you manual to understand how to use correctly.

good luck

 

I used a fool-proof test light when the car on(2nd click) engine off on the battery it lit up bright, used it on the front thermostat and it glowed a little, put it on both pins of the connector to the driver's fan --no light on either one.

 

Well, I was in darkness, and now I think I found some light. I tested both relays for any signs of continuity on the yellow/white wires and the connector that gos to the cooling fan has continuity in the bottom-left pin that went all the way up to 30 volts and was probably still rising had I not removed the lead.

The Hayne's manual says it shouldn't have any continuity(closed circuit?) there(Also Hayne's manual has 10 great ideas for potential cooling fan problems. Check it out if you're having problems, it's a great starting point I wish I would have referenced sooner)

Where do I go from here?

 

My 1992 Honda accord. Ac unit was repaired. mechanic replace old compressor and installed new drier and front condenser unit.(he said to replace compressor with new fer-ion R134. car did have R12 when car was built new. My A/C now dose not work after spending 1.800 for repairs.
I am going to replace compressor and drier unit myself. any instructions on what not to do when overhauling system???
Thank you for your help..
Bill
Iowa

 

nevermind.

 

My 2006 Honda Accord has a problem when the defroster is on the drivers side blows cold air while the passenger side blows hot air. Any suggestions as to a fix?

 

Adventure and Glen Miller

Post your threads as originals in correct forum. It's too confusing to respond to three different problems in one thread.

good luck

 

Good news: I shorted the wire to the condenser relay(Driver's side fan on my car) and the fan comes on. I suppose this is good news, because the wiring is functioning as it should?

However when I short thermostat A(behind engine) it still doesn't come on. I'm going to try swapping the relays again to see if that works, but last time I swapped them both turned on the AC clutch and it clicked, so I don't think it's the relays.


Also, I finally got a solid voltage reading on all the parts. The thermo stat sensors, and the wiring to the condenser fan. As it turns out the main ground off the negative battery terminal was exposed. The insulation was gone and the wired was green and corroded. I used a long swivel wrench to take off the bolt, used a wire brush to clean off all the corrosion, sniped off the extra wire and wrapped it back up in an electrical tape jacket. After doing that I now have solid readings from my volt meter. With the car off I got .4 and then .8 volts from thermostat A, 10.58 volts from thermostat B, and .4 volts from the wire to the condenser relay.