Accord 96, strange door power lock problem.
#1
Accord 96, strange door power lock problem.
Hi,
I have a strange problem on my Accord 1996 driver side power lock.
The drive side (only) won't lock when I press the remote lock key so I have to lock it with the key.
BUT the driver side will unlock when I hit the unlock remote key !!
NOW, when using the switch on the driver side door to unlock or lock, nothing happen , the driver side wont lock or unlock !!!!!!
When I lock / unlock, there are no strange sound.
Any idea of my problem ?? Should I change the actuator ?? or it is just a problem of lubrification ?
Thanks
I have a strange problem on my Accord 1996 driver side power lock.
The drive side (only) won't lock when I press the remote lock key so I have to lock it with the key.
BUT the driver side will unlock when I hit the unlock remote key !!
NOW, when using the switch on the driver side door to unlock or lock, nothing happen , the driver side wont lock or unlock !!!!!!
When I lock / unlock, there are no strange sound.
Any idea of my problem ?? Should I change the actuator ?? or it is just a problem of lubrification ?
Thanks
#2
You could take off the door panel and test the door lock motor directly with 12 volt power and ground to see if it is a problem with the actuator.
Just touch one terminal of the actuator connector with positive (+) and the other with negative (-). Switching the wires will reverse the motor, so no need to worry about which will be negative and which positive. Just touch them briefly, as you don't want to burn out the motors.
You could use long speaker wires from the car battery if you don't have a 12 volt source lying around like a lantern battery or something.
This picture is of an actuator removed from the car.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-actuator-jpg
Just touch one terminal of the actuator connector with positive (+) and the other with negative (-). Switching the wires will reverse the motor, so no need to worry about which will be negative and which positive. Just touch them briefly, as you don't want to burn out the motors.
You could use long speaker wires from the car battery if you don't have a 12 volt source lying around like a lantern battery or something.
This picture is of an actuator removed from the car.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-actuator-jpg
#4
For the testing, you're just removing the door panel and testing the motor at the electrical connector. I only showed my picture as an example of testing the connector terminals with a battery; no need to remove the actuator for the test. Also, that picture shows the whole latch and actuator assembly, if it is only the actuator that is bad, the latch doesn't need to be removed.
If you have to replace it, this link has some info. on removal of the actuator.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...cycling-48713/
If you have to replace it, this link has some info. on removal of the actuator.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...cycling-48713/
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