I cleaned my EGR ports there were not that bad, changed my spark plugs the problem is still there. I did the code diagnostic procedure as mentioned in the manual and when short the service connector and turn the ignition switch to on the check light stays on, this code means my ECM is bad. Looks like my ECM has gone bad. Let me know what you guys think.

 

If you shorted that connector, and the check engine light stayed on after you cleared the code(s), that means that there are no engine codes. That doesn't mean a bad ECU. You may want to drive around until the check engine light turns on, then recheck the code.

It sounds like you have the proper input on the ELD. If code 20 (or p1298) returns, I would replace the fuse box (the ELD is part of the fuse box). The ELD failing is rare, so I would pick one up at a junkyard.

 

If poor performance persists, suggest having an engine scanner check fuel trim and O2 sensor performance. Occasionally, an O2 sensor is the cause of poor performance w/o a CEL set.

Excessive long term fuel trim either postive or negative indicates something is wrong.

Check youtube videos for checking O2 sensor performance.

good luck

 

Ok took the car for a ride. It is still acting crappy, no power, even if I give it gas it struggles to go above 3000 rpm. Here is what I did in order

Cleaned the EGR ports
Performed a test on ELD circuit without shorting the short service connector
disconnected the 3 pin connector from fuse box and read approx 4.5 V DC between the green/red and black wire
connected the 3 pin connector to the fuse box and measured 2.2 V DC between the green/red (+) and black (-) wires with the lights on. Though my haynes manual says it should read 2.5 to 3.5 volts
read the same voltage now with the high beams on and it read 1.33 V though the manual says it should read 1.5 to 2.5 V DC.
So I thought some thing is indeed wrong with the ELD
I then Replaced all four spark plugs just to see if the problem goes away. it did not.
I decided to short the service connector and run through the test flow chart that honda manual suggests.
When I shorted the short service connector the check engine light was not blinking it stayed on, so I thought my ECM is caput.
So I removed the ECM to check connections and wires and everything looked great.
Reinstalled the ECM and still I had the problem.
Then I drove the accord to advanced auto to check for codes though I did not have the check engine light on and the OBD scanner this time was not reading any codes.
So right now the code is gone but the problem persists and the code is not coming back. The 3 pin connector is still reading the same voltages.

Next my plan is to check my fuel pressure, filter and O2 sensor.

Any advice guys this is starting to worry me. Thank you

 

i have a honda accord 1997 v6 atomatic trans. same problem at 60 miles per hour loss power i change the ignition coil that fixt my problem.yours 2.2 & manual trans i'm not sure if this will fixt yours.

 

Hi guys, finally found the problem, going to back to the old saying if something goes aroung with your car go back and trace what you did last time. I did the timing belt change 4000 miles ago so I decided to inspect my work and take a look at my timing belt I noticed that it had skipped 2 teeth, further inspection revealed that the timing cover gasket came loose and got sucked in by the belt and caused the belt to get loose and skip timing. I found shreds of gasket all over the place.

I also found that my oil pump gasket was leaking, I know I should have replaced it while I was doing the belt change. Anyways this time I did not have time nor the patience to fix it myself so took the care to mechanic now the car runs great.

Thank you all for your help and time this goes in my lessons learned book.