Accord Radio turns ON when the car is OFF 2005
#1
Accord Radio turns ON when the car is OFF 2005
I finally found the culprit causing my 2005 Accord radio to come on when the car was OFF. A surface mount resistor was NOT soldered on the ground side.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
#2
I finally found the culprit causing my 2005 Accord radio to come on when the car was OFF. A surface mount resistor was NOT soldered on the ground side.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
Last edited by dkwilfert; 03-18-2019 at 04:51 AM.
#3
I found this thread and it sounded like what was happening to the 2004 Accord LX we just bought for our son. When I pulled it apart, that very resistor was loose just like you described. I scraped away the protective coating but apparently not well enough for a fresh bead to adhere, and ended up heating it enough for the other end to let loose. I did get it to resolder. When I put it back together the power problem was fixed. It no longer turned on without the key, etc, etc. However, now no sound, no matter what input I select. Any ideas?
#4
I found this thread and it sounded like what was happening to the 2004 Accord LX we just bought for our son. When I pulled it apart, that very resistor was loose just like you described. I scraped away the protective coating but apparently not well enough for a fresh bead to adhere, and ended up heating it enough for the other end to let loose. I did get it to resolder. When I put it back together the power problem was fixed. It no longer turned on without the key, etc, etc. However, now no sound, no matter what input I select. Any ideas?
#6
Honda Accord 2003 EX with same issue
My radio started flicking on and off with no key in the ignition same as yours. I pulled out my stereo's circuit board and it appears to be identical to the 2005 stereo PCB shown in the OP image. I added solder to the resistor mentioned and after reinsertion that flickering on and off stopped while the car is off, thanks!
However, I have now started getting the same issues that others have mentioned in this thread. After reinsertion I found that the sound didn't work. I was able to trace the issue to the male connector on the front of the PCB which slides into the female slot on the back of the display. The connection is very weak, and by removing the PCB and disconnecting it I apparently further weakened the formerly solid connection.
I tried attaching the PCB in its disassembled state without the stereo casing to get more room to maneuver and test the connection. I found that if I make the connection and apply pressure, the stereo works fine again, but if I let it slack, the audio sometimes turns off (volume still works but does nothing), or the stereo itself turns off, or the LCD screen turns blank and hangs. So I'm confident this is the issue.
I managed to get the stereo to stay on consistently by pounding on the back of the stereo with the screws loosened. Then I tightened the screws to hold the connection in its slightly strengthened state. The stereo still turned off a couple times while I inserted it back into the dash, but once it was in it it seemed ok.
I'm going to drive around and test it for a few days to see if it holds. If it doesn't, I think I'll try removing the metal guide bar on top of the PCB connector.
However, I have now started getting the same issues that others have mentioned in this thread. After reinsertion I found that the sound didn't work. I was able to trace the issue to the male connector on the front of the PCB which slides into the female slot on the back of the display. The connection is very weak, and by removing the PCB and disconnecting it I apparently further weakened the formerly solid connection.
I tried attaching the PCB in its disassembled state without the stereo casing to get more room to maneuver and test the connection. I found that if I make the connection and apply pressure, the stereo works fine again, but if I let it slack, the audio sometimes turns off (volume still works but does nothing), or the stereo itself turns off, or the LCD screen turns blank and hangs. So I'm confident this is the issue.
I managed to get the stereo to stay on consistently by pounding on the back of the stereo with the screws loosened. Then I tightened the screws to hold the connection in its slightly strengthened state. The stereo still turned off a couple times while I inserted it back into the dash, but once it was in it it seemed ok.
I'm going to drive around and test it for a few days to see if it holds. If it doesn't, I think I'll try removing the metal guide bar on top of the PCB connector.
#7
I realize this thread is a little old but I just signed up because I purchased a 2006 Accord for my sons first car. It’s a Value Package 5 speed manual. The radio is model 39050-SDA-A110-M1 but the board looks identical to OP. The problem is the backlights don’t work and no sound. I experienced the radio flickering on and off one time with the key out but we’ve only owned it a week. I was excited to find this fix because all of the other threads on here and the Drive Honda forum seem to be about the failed resistor/fuse from a different board that apparently comes with the CD changer model with a ribbon cord. When we bought the car we knew the radio didn’t work but didn’t know the backlights didn’t work until we drove it at night. So I need to fix this and I’m a little more anxious now that I’ve seen the flickering with the key out. It took me a little while to figure out the screws holding the CD player in (you have to remove the plastic shroud). But once I got it out it was identical to OP’s so I thought I would give his fix a try. You can’t appreciate how small this resistor is until you try to solder it. I used a magnifying glass with reading glasses but still had a hard time getting the solder on each end. Maybe I’m not very good at soldering because I melted my wife’s plastic stand a little that holds the magnifying glass because I was laser-focused on the task. Anyway, I did the best I could and even replaced the heat sink compound as mentioned in another thread. Someone in another thread mentioned cleaning the board with alcohol but it appears to me that the blue film on parts of the board was from the factory so I didn’t do that. I replaced everything and had a somewhat difficult time getting the case to snap back into the front panel but it seemed like it pooped in OK. However, no difference after the repair. I’m kinda bummed because I don’t see anywhere else to turn now except to replace the unit. It didn’t flash on/off with the key out but I am worried that it may do it again and run down the battery. I am probably going to go aftermarket as I fear going OEM it may just be a matter of time before it happens again. Aftermarket isn’t ideal either but I feel more confident about it long term. Probably either the Metra 99-7803G or the Seicane H619K. Can’t go with the less expensive under-compartment option because that still keeps the factory radio controlling the climate controls which is the major problem. None of the options are inexpensive. If anyone knows of other reasonably-priced options please let me know.
#8
I finally found the culprit causing my 2005 Accord radio to come on when the car was OFF. A surface mount resistor was NOT soldered on the ground side.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
See the attached picture, The dental pic is on the resistor next to D809. I had to scrape some paint from the ground to get it to take solder. This resistor is a pull down for the on/off logic. Drove me nuts, I traced every run from the power input through several resistors. This resistor moved when I tried to solder the side opposite to the ground. Radio has behaved normally ever since. Hope this helps someone, that radio is not only hard to find, it's expensive. Single disk CD player part number 39050-SDA-A020-M1. If the car was not used often, it would run down the battery.
#10
Repair tips
This resistor is inside the radio, you must remove the CD drive to get to the PC board. The connector to the face plate is pretty fragile so take care to get it lined up when putting the face back together. Use a small soldering iron with a surface mount tip, tools are worth the $$$ to save the radio. Scrape the paint off the pc board adjacent to the resistor, get it hot enough to take the solder. After you're done soldering, clean with XYLOL or enamel reducer, alcohol is conductive and will leave a path between circuits, Lacquer thinner will eat the parts on the board.