Accord stalling problem
#1
Unregistered
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Accord stalling problem
I've got a 1991 Accord 2.2L EXR which has been reeking havoc on my life the last 2 weeks. All of a sudden, it just started stalling out on me while moving. I've never got it to stall on me while just sitting. I took it into Honda the first time, and they skimmed it over for two hours to find nothing wrong, they couldn't get it to stall so they could further diagnose it. So I leave and do my thing for a day or so and it starts acting up once again. So I say screw it and change the fuel pump(Carter brand). All seems fine until it starts doing the same symptoms again. Sometimes it struggles to start, and it also dies while in motion. Ask a few opinions around town and I must have a faulty fuel pump. Replace fuel pump once again. Two days later it stalls on me again. When it stalls with the key still in the on position, all my lights are lit like they are before you go to start your car. Try and crank and it doesn't start for 2-15 minutes. So I take it to a bigger Honda dealer with more service personnel and they have no idea. I go home and research on the internet and find out all my symptoms relate to a main relay. Take it back to Honda and get them to replace main relay. I pick it up today, drive it home and it dies on me on the way home!?!?!?! Loseing my mind trying to get through University with this piece of **** taking up all my money is driveing me insane. I really hope somebody has somewhat of an idea here. If it helps, I replaced my fuel filter last October. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Edit- 5-Speed Tranny
Edit- 5-Speed Tranny
#2
RE: Accord stalling problem
Typically, a no start/stalling condition is spark related NOT fuel related. Since the problem is happening intermittently, it will be tougher to diagnose.
You don't want to keep throwing parts at the car, because it is a waste of money. Diagnose the problem first.
Is your check engine light on at all? To get error codes, follow the instructions on this site (http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html)
Are the routine maintenance items up to date? (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter). If those are in good condition, the ignition switch, coil, or rotor are the most likely culprits.
If you look at the starting problems on this site (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html), it will help you out a lot. Especially for testing for spark.
When you have the no start condition, leave the key in the II (on) position and unplug the electrical connnector to the distributor. Check to see if you have 12 volts at the yel/blk wire. If you don't have 12V, the electrical portion of the ignition switch is bad.
In the DIY section, there is a writeup on how to determine if a coil or ignitor is bad. You should pick up a digital volt meter and a cheap spark plug to diagnose the spark problem.
You don't want to keep throwing parts at the car, because it is a waste of money. Diagnose the problem first.
Is your check engine light on at all? To get error codes, follow the instructions on this site (http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html)
Are the routine maintenance items up to date? (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter). If those are in good condition, the ignition switch, coil, or rotor are the most likely culprits.
If you look at the starting problems on this site (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html), it will help you out a lot. Especially for testing for spark.
When you have the no start condition, leave the key in the II (on) position and unplug the electrical connnector to the distributor. Check to see if you have 12 volts at the yel/blk wire. If you don't have 12V, the electrical portion of the ignition switch is bad.
In the DIY section, there is a writeup on how to determine if a coil or ignitor is bad. You should pick up a digital volt meter and a cheap spark plug to diagnose the spark problem.
#3
RE: Accord stalling problem
well, when it stalls does the engine just quit similar to shutting the car off normally? or does it sputter and die slowly, or shake the car excessively?
if it's a fast quit as if you turned the key off i'd suspect the electrical portion of the ignition switch. fast and easy repair. you can even take it apart and find burnt contacts.
if it's a fast quit as if you turned the key off i'd suspect the electrical portion of the ignition switch. fast and easy repair. you can even take it apart and find burnt contacts.
#4
Having same problem with the same car
Daughter's car just started stalling on her the other day. Has done it for me too. thought it was the fuel so I replaced the fuel filter. Still stalls. Read some blogs and replaced the ICM. Still stalls. Frustrated please HELP!!
#5
Do we assume you have the same year as the OP?
Does it start right back up?
Might be the electrical part of the key switch. Next time it does this, what do the dash lights look like-which are on. Leave the key in the on position, check for voltage on the BLK/YEL wire going into the dist?
It could also be the coil.
Does it start right back up?
Might be the electrical part of the key switch. Next time it does this, what do the dash lights look like-which are on. Leave the key in the on position, check for voltage on the BLK/YEL wire going into the dist?
It could also be the coil.
#6
No start/stalls
I also have been dealing with the same issue on my 1991 ex accord with the 2.2.stalling starting then stalling again to completely not starting for a while even after a few hours. I checked the codes and it reads 12 and 15, ignition output signal and exhaust recirculation. I went from rebuliding the entire distributor to buying a completely brand new one not rebuilt.i also changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and main relay, and I also changed the spark plugs. Regardless of the check engine light being on or off the car still won't start or it just stalls out. Power seems to be fine, I'm completely lost now and still pulling hair out..PLZ HELP ME. Does a dirty or bad EGR vlave capable of cause such issues???
#8
I think the exhaust leak is too far away from the O2 sensor to cause problems.
Do you still get code 15? That can be broken wiring from the ECU to the distributor. The "ignition output signal" is the ECU telling the ignitor to fire the coil. I'd suggest a bad ignitor, but you say it's a new distributor...
Do you still get code 15? That can be broken wiring from the ECU to the distributor. The "ignition output signal" is the ECU telling the ignitor to fire the coil. I'd suggest a bad ignitor, but you say it's a new distributor...
#9
Well I had the new distributor in but had to take it out and put the stock back in cause the car would not start anymore, put the old back in and it started right up, I also cleaned the EGR vlave but it is still giving me codes 12 and 15. The wiring in the distributor does look corroded and brail, could that be the big problem that's making the car wig out, if so? Could I just replace the wire harness in the distributor from the new to the stock distributor?
#10
If it's only bad/brittle/loose wiring inside the distributor, sure you can fix that.
How about fixing those wires with wire from another source so you can return the distributor as non-working? Then maybe buy a spare ignitor which should be cheaper than a whole distributor. If you're stuck with that distributor, at least you can grab the ignitor and coil.
How about fixing those wires with wire from another source so you can return the distributor as non-working? Then maybe buy a spare ignitor which should be cheaper than a whole distributor. If you're stuck with that distributor, at least you can grab the ignitor and coil.