It's a brief issue explaination, really...

I replaced the passenger side Ball-Joint.
I few months later the drivers side fell to the ground when my girl took the car 50 miles from home.
(I know, I messed up on that one. Should have done them both)
I let a local shop take it for a month and pay them $900 to replace the Ball-Joint, Bearings, and Driveshaft.
After having the car back for a week the trans starts slippin bad so I look under to find that the new driveshaft isn't completely inserted into the transfer case - fluid leaked out through there.

The guy gives me a partial refund and I decide to fix it myself.
I already bought a new snap ring, or c-clip that goes on the end of the driveshaft from the dealership.

I have spring break coming up so finally some time - I'm about to take it all back apart and I wanted to throw this out for a consensus.
Are there other likely causes of this?
The joint busted at low very speed around a corner (thank god), could that have created a geometry issue?
What type of proactive steps should be taken on the transmission now?

I guess just basically a brainstorm of anything you can think of that might help on my road to resolution.

Thanks so much.

 

Most likely the axle was not inserted properly into place initially. If it had been "snapped" into place it would not have released. It can sometimes be difficult to remove or install a CV joint end w/ snap ring. Clean the male and female parts carefully and relubricate. A new snap ring is required. Insert the shaft carefully w/ no binding to damage the snap ring. Firmly push to engage the snap ring in it's receiving groove.

good luck

 

Thanks Gary ,
Man I hope that's all there is to it!


Does anyone think I should take the driveshaft and compare it with another to confirm it's the correct part?

Could something have bent out of shape on any of the arms or attachments that might attribute to this?

When I start it up it sounds like something is bouncing around in there, I'm assuming it's that snap ring.
Would it be prudent to pull the trans pan at this point and look for shavings or something?

I guess Honda's and back country Wisconsin auto shops just don't mix. [&o]

I'll go pull it apart and take some pictures for this post right now.

THANKS

 

Reporting from location - Under the hood:

http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...71856285797346

As you can see the driveshaft isn't completely inserted into the transfer case - that shiny silver part should be inside the casing:

http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...71491213577074

Here's the driveshaft itself, does this look new to you? Am I missing something here? I paid $160 for a new drivers side driveshaft that's rusty?

http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...72122573769762

The upper control arm, steering rod end, tie rod end, and ball joint nuts have been removed, I tied on some wire to hold up the spindle but the bolt throug the strut fork is still holding it up. I'll pull that last big attachement after I get past this stubborn Hub Nut. Looks like I'll be grinding a chisel down to spec for bending this tab back out. (my screwdriver isn't cutting it). If anyone knows a good trick for this please let me know. I have all the proper tools otherwise.
(except a 200# air compressor

http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...71967954947074


BTW: I haven't checked to see if there's a DIY on pulling this corner of the car apart around here but I'd be willing to help if there isn't.
-Or if there's anything anyone wants to see while I'm at it just let me know - IM if unrelated to this thread of course.

So, as you can see I won't finish tonight because of that Hub Nut and Time Constraints. I'll keep it goin though and get back with ya.

For now here's my transportation:

http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...69713097115970



Thanks for any advice.

Matthew

 

Ok, then should I post this somewhere else? Any ideas?

 

Trouble un-staking the big axle nut? I've had some luck driving a smallnail in along the groove, under the staked part of the nut. Don't drive it in too far to bugger up the threads in the main part of the nut.

 

It is possible someone installed an incorrect axle for your vehicle. There are subtle differences in length that could cause axle pullout. Only way to know is pull the axle and compare dimensions per the Honda Shop Manual. Use the "online manuals" link under DIY to download a manual.

good luck

 

No that axle does not look new and wow 160 sorta high you could get one for 100 that is new/ rebuilt to exact specs i only paid 45 for mine because i know someone who gets parts at wholesale though and no that axle is not new shouldn't look like that

 

based on your picture (judging the pattern and degree of rust on the sway bar as compared to the axle..) I don't think it was changed at all. I wouldn't be the least bit suprised if that was the origonal axle...

The big ol' nut, I use a flathead screwdriver, angle it onto or just under the lip and tap on it with a hammer.... (the screwdriver that is)

 

I just put my IR 1/2inch impact to it and just rip it off i mean he has to replace the axle anyhow he isn't going to screw anything up