After Market Timing Belt kits
#1
After Market Timing Belt kits
Well I am not rich but according to the Honda dealer I am need of a timing belt. His price about 800.00. Since I am pretty handy I figure I would give this a try. But my question is about After Market Parts. This kit seems like it has everything I need but am afraid of quality. I would really appreciate some opinions.
This is the link to the kit.
Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit Honda Accord 1990 to 1993: Automotive
This is the link to the kit.
Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit Honda Accord 1990 to 1993: Automotive
Last edited by ChicagoBob123; 05-24-2011 at 08:06 PM.
#2
I have used many (contitech, Flenner, GMB, Koyo) of these parts w/o problems.
That price may be a bit high for those parts. Check ebay prices and separate prices for valve cover kit and accessory belt.
Suggest also checking rockauto.com.
good luck
That price may be a bit high for those parts. Check ebay prices and separate prices for valve cover kit and accessory belt.
Suggest also checking rockauto.com.
good luck
#3
Arm yourself with the most information as possible.
There is a site called ericthecarguy.com that has a pretty good timing belt video for $10. It is for the 94-97 accord, but your 93 is pretty similar. There is also a thread by Tony1M that shows some pics on a 92 accord. The shop manual for your car will help a lot. You may be able to find one as a pdf on ebay.
There is a site called ericthecarguy.com that has a pretty good timing belt video for $10. It is for the 94-97 accord, but your 93 is pretty similar. There is also a thread by Tony1M that shows some pics on a 92 accord. The shop manual for your car will help a lot. You may be able to find one as a pdf on ebay.
#4
i just had mine changed in my 93. Bought 98% of everything from rockauto. Odered on mon had everything by sat. For about $150. I can get the part numbers later on the exact parts. Got dayco tensioner kit, goodyear gatorback timing/balancing belts, water pump w/ gasket, goodyear access belts & valve cover gasket. I only needed the tensioner springs from tas auto for $14. I didnt do the cam or balancing seal. It took the guy who did it 6 hrs, he thought only 2 1/2. Had some stubborn bolts and what not (old car). Its drives so much better now. Google "rockauto discount code" to find a valid code. Usually 5% off. Follow directions on how to put it in to get it right (some people dont put it in right. IMO rock auto is on of the best A+++ to deal with.
#6
ericthecarguy ..
I got his video. It was great!! Its one of the only reasons I think I can pull this job off. His list of tools and order of removing and installing was fantastic. He showed you all the timing marks for the gears so you can make sure the thing is done right.
I figure I will need about $70 to $100 in tools that I dont have and about 150 to 200 in parts. So for less than half I will get everything done Water pump, seals and belts.
???HEY, for anyone that has done this, do I need to remove the valve cover for any reason???
The Honda dealer replaced my oil seals already and in watching the video I dont see why I have to take the cover off.
My biggest worry is getting that bolt loose on the balancer. I read its spec'd at 150lbs of pressure add some rust and OMG that can be a tough bolt to get loose. As Eric mentioned in the video you can only hope the belt was replaced before.. I have 190,000 miles on the car now and got it with 140,000. I really don't have an accurate history.
One last question. The Honda dealer quoted over 300 to change the oil pan gasket am I missing something there? I have seen the pan and I dont see any big issues in putting a new gasket on.
Hey thanks everyone. I am cruising over to RockAuto.com to have a look see
I got his video. It was great!! Its one of the only reasons I think I can pull this job off. His list of tools and order of removing and installing was fantastic. He showed you all the timing marks for the gears so you can make sure the thing is done right.
I figure I will need about $70 to $100 in tools that I dont have and about 150 to 200 in parts. So for less than half I will get everything done Water pump, seals and belts.
???HEY, for anyone that has done this, do I need to remove the valve cover for any reason???
The Honda dealer replaced my oil seals already and in watching the video I dont see why I have to take the cover off.
My biggest worry is getting that bolt loose on the balancer. I read its spec'd at 150lbs of pressure add some rust and OMG that can be a tough bolt to get loose. As Eric mentioned in the video you can only hope the belt was replaced before.. I have 190,000 miles on the car now and got it with 140,000. I really don't have an accurate history.
One last question. The Honda dealer quoted over 300 to change the oil pan gasket am I missing something there? I have seen the pan and I dont see any big issues in putting a new gasket on.
Hey thanks everyone. I am cruising over to RockAuto.com to have a look see
#7
Since your cam gear is outside of the valve cover there should not be a reason to take it off.
The crank pulley can be quite difficult to get off. I assume you dont have an air compressor(makes easy work of it); so I would go to home depot and get a very long metal pipe that can fit over the end of your breaker bar/ratchet.
As for $300 for an oil pan gasket that seems about right for a dealer. Its not an overly complicated job, but could take an hour or two and with my local Honda's labor rate at $125 an hour it seems right. Its only difficult because you have to take the exhaust manifold off.
The crank pulley can be quite difficult to get off. I assume you dont have an air compressor(makes easy work of it); so I would go to home depot and get a very long metal pipe that can fit over the end of your breaker bar/ratchet.
As for $300 for an oil pan gasket that seems about right for a dealer. Its not an overly complicated job, but could take an hour or two and with my local Honda's labor rate at $125 an hour it seems right. Its only difficult because you have to take the exhaust manifold off.
#8
I think that you have to take off the VC, so you can remove the upper timing belt cover.
If you can't get the crank pulley bolt removed, try to find a shop that will loosen it for you, then tighten it back down. I think the hardest part is to initially break that bolt loose after its been rusting on there for 90K+ miles.
If you can't get the crank pulley bolt removed, try to find a shop that will loosen it for you, then tighten it back down. I think the hardest part is to initially break that bolt loose after its been rusting on there for 90K+ miles.
#9
You don't have to completely remove the valve cover, but you have to remove the retaining cap nuts and lift the cover to free the upper timing belt cover which is trapped under the cover.
Getting the crankshaft pulley bolt loose can be a challenge. I recently found that heating the bolt 3-5 mins w/ propane torch and hitting w/ a good 1/2" air impact does the job nicely.
If you don't have access to an air impact, the retraint tool, two 1/2" breaker bars, 20" or so of 1/2" extensions, and jack stand to support the extension are necessary for this operation. A cheater pipe to increase leverage can be needed on some bolts. Note, heating the bolt for 3-5 mins w/ propane torch will help w/ this method also. It works by lengthening the bolt slightly and loosening the bolt's friction load on the large washer under the bolt head.
good luck
Getting the crankshaft pulley bolt loose can be a challenge. I recently found that heating the bolt 3-5 mins w/ propane torch and hitting w/ a good 1/2" air impact does the job nicely.
If you don't have access to an air impact, the retraint tool, two 1/2" breaker bars, 20" or so of 1/2" extensions, and jack stand to support the extension are necessary for this operation. A cheater pipe to increase leverage can be needed on some bolts. Note, heating the bolt for 3-5 mins w/ propane torch will help w/ this method also. It works by lengthening the bolt slightly and loosening the bolt's friction load on the large washer under the bolt head.
good luck
#10
Hey thanks.. Propane? Good suggestion. I do have some air tools.
I have a 6 gal compressor and some impact tools but need more impact sockets for this job. Would you spray PB Blaster on it?
Oh and would any of you put anti seize on the Cam bolt before you put it back on?
I have a 6 gal compressor and some impact tools but need more impact sockets for this job. Would you spray PB Blaster on it?
Oh and would any of you put anti seize on the Cam bolt before you put it back on?
Last edited by ChicagoBob123; 05-25-2011 at 08:30 PM.