I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V4-2.3L Automatic with 118,900 miles in CT that hasn't been driven for over 2 years. Its never been garaged in the last 13 years, I expect there is a fair amount of corrosion on the underside. I'm trying to bring it restore it, and started by replacing a new battery and will do an engine oil with 5w30 Mobil1 oil and Mobil filter (i put in a fumoto valve a few years ago. That's the limit of my mechanical skills. So I filled air and set the tire pressure, and took it for an Emissions testing and DMV registration, and then to an auto mechanic for evaluation. It was a 20-mile trip, and I didn't have any breakdowns. The steering wheel vibrated, and not sure if that was due to the rotors, or because the power steering fluid has never been replaced. No smoke coming from the engine. The mechanic took the tires off and checked the brakes and the radiator with a pressure test. Recommended that I replace all the rotors and pads, the radiator and the radiator hoses, and service the calipers. The rotors were warped and rusted, the pads had worn out. He said the radiator would start leaking soon as it would come apart at the seams, and also that the hose may burst (said something about the clamp/hose/cutting/coolant dispersing).

I've been researching this for the last few days, and have read a lot of posts on this site, and seen youtube videos, and figured this isn't something I can do. So I'm focusing on getting the parts for the job. The labor rate is $98/hour.

Radiator: I looked at HondaAutomotiveParts, and saw that the radiator was from Denso. I landed up at DensoProducts and found 221-3215 at $88, which (even with the $30 3-day shipping) compares very well to the $232 for the OEM. Then I checked NAPA and see that they have three, between $138 to $144. I was leaning towards NAPA since I could get it quicker, but wasn't sure about the quality. Is one better over the other? I'm not sure if they all have a drain plug, or if the original radiator cap will fit. Is there anything else I should look for?
Radiator work is 2.5 hours of Labor.
Radiator Hose: On radiator hose and clamps, does it matter where I get them from? Honda Automotive is selling OEM, upper and lower for $21 + SH, should I get those, or is there better value elsewhere?

Antifreeze: What do folks use for the Antifreeze? I read the owner's manual, and it says only use the Honda brand, the mechanic says Global Lifetime Antifreeze should be fine. Since I'm putting in a new radiator, is a flush required?

Brakes: I'm 50-50 with city-highway, and my driving isn't too aggressive. I checked out OEM, AutoAnything and Tirerack, and leaning towards Tirerack. It seems that "Centric Posi Quiet Semi Metalic Pads" at $41 front and $32 rear would be a good frugal choice, but I'm uncertain as I don't know how good these are. For the rotors, I'm not sure how to decide between the "Brembo Replacement Rotor" ($43 front, $31 rear, each) and the "Centric Plain 120" ($32 front, $31 rear). Is one better over the other?

Brake work is 4.5 hours of labor.

Brake Fluid and Flush: What criteria to use to determine if the brake fluid should be flushed and replaced?


Power Steering Fluid: What criteria to use to determine if it should be flushed/replaced/topped?

Is there anything else that should be checked out for a car with this history?

If there are any recommendations for auto shops in or around Danbury, CT area, please let me know, I will give them a call.

Thank you for reading the post, any suggestions and recommendations appreciated.

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1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder Automatic Sedan
118,900 miles
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I would probably go with the Denso radiator. Removing the radiator is not too bad of a DIY. The only tricky part may be removing the transmission lines.

For the coolant, how long does the manual say to change the coolant?

I have read that brembo rotors are of good quality.

I would drain and refill the transmission with Honda ATF. One drain refill will take about 3 quarts.

 

i have an 01 accord and it has never been in a garage and i do a lot of hwy and city driving. my radiator and hoses are fine. i just changed the coolant for the first time just because its old not a whole lot of miles and it didn't look bad at all. But for your case if you feel you would like to spend the money now its up to you. but i would say it your hoses aren't cracked or dry rotted don't worry about it and same with the radiator. if it does start to leak cary a jug of water until you are able to replace it but it is something the average person i think can do with some patience and basic skills and tools. my radiator is a denso from factory. but napa caries quality products cheaper than orielys and autozone at least where i am from. and there products have a warranty. the stock cap will work on a replacement but if yours is cracked or the seal is bad get a new one. and they should come with a new petcock plug. however. do NOT throw away your old radiator before you get the new one. i got a radiator from nappa and i had to use the old brass fittings for the trans in the new one. Brembo is a good quality part as well. i am not sure about the other. and with the steering and break fluids if the pump is not winning when you turn or your break pedal isn't dropping i would assume ( but could be wrong) the fluids or fine. but since you are getting new rotors and pads i would have them bleed the breaks with new fluid. your steering vibration might come from some lose tierods or other steering components. i am not a pro at all of this but i hope some of this helps

 

some other things, my steering wheels vibrates slightly because of the engine vibration and i can only see and feel it when i'm at a red light and have the a/c on but if yours is really bad i would have it looked at. and for the coolant i used i just got peak long life concentrated and filled it with one gallon and the rest with water instead of getting 2 gallons of 50/50. and the reason the manual says honda products only is because they want your money. but i will say the only honda fluid i use is their trans fluid. and they dont even make the one (ATF Z1) my car takes now. they have ATF DW1 now or something like that name. but i think if you set aside a full weekend to check fluids replace fluids and basic care like air filter and such a lot of you maintenance will be done for not nearly as much money as they charge at the shop. but when it comes to steering issues ( a lot of vibration) and having breaks redone i would take it somewhere because if you are not sure what you are doing you mess up bad.

 

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Best regards
Anthony Martello

 

You say this because its been sitting for a while?

I looked through my records today, and I changed the transmission oil with Honda ATF at 114,000 miles in April 2008, and the let it sit starting 118,850 miles in Sep 2009.

 

Now that I come to think of it, my steering wheel vibrates slightly even when on a straight highway with no traffic and braking. Its not really noticeable, but given nothing similar in other cars, this becomes more obvious to a layperson. However, after 30mins or more, my arms, elbows and shoulders start hurting from the vibration.

 

Tires. The car sat for two years so the tires might have flatspotted. Switch the backs with the fronts and see the vibration changes or goes away.

 

I had a question, when the OEM parts are sold, are they for the driver and passenger side, or is it for one at wheel a time?

Example, on HondaAutomotiveParts for 1999 Honda Accord EX V4AT:

Front : "45022-S84-A02, PAD SET, FR." $41.39
Rear: "43022-SY8-A0, PAD SET, RR." $44.30

 

The front set has all four pads. Look at the diagram for part number 6. It shows all four.

Also, the required quantity is 1 for the pads. For the hub, for example, the required quantity is 2 (one for each side).

For parts that are side specific, they put a L (driver's) and R (passenger) side.