Oil is distributed through the system. Flush hoses and condensor. Drain all that will run out of evaporator. An air nozzle w/ rubber tip is handy to pressurize and pop-release to get most of old oil out.

Pour old oil out of receiver/drier and evaporator and look for evidence of compressor damage. If oil is clean, compressor is likely OK. Replace receiver/drier.

You will need to purchase a bottle of ester or PAG oil to install. Capacity is about 4-5 oz. I've stuck w/ ester oil (BVA 100) from ackits. They also have the DEC (double end capped) PAG oil. Both are good oils. Oil can also be purchased at most auto parts stores.

Read ac recharging instructions at autoacforum.com. You will need a vacuum pump to dry the system correctly. See recent video from ericthe carguy on youtube for a description of charging procedure.

good luck

 

Thank you so much! I won't have time to do the Glove compartment part till monday since I work all weekend. I now need to buy the OTHER line that connects to the receiver. I bent it about a year ago and I regret it now because it bent and it is $70 @ the dealer and @majestic honda.

I think I'll cheap out on that part and get it from a salvage yard. And I also just ordered a new receiver today! I'm listening to every step of yours!

I will post an update! Thanks again!

 

Texas, I took the evaporator out. There is no oil present whatsoever because the 'lines' were open for years already. Without oil in those lines does it mean that the compressor is ruined because Ive been driving the car around like that?

Everything seems good right now, I have ALL the lines and the new receiver ready to put together, the condenser is in good condition as well.

Only thing is see is that the EVAP lines that go into the engine bay are a bit dirty, what do you suggest I clean those with?

What should I do now as far as checking other things to make sure everything will work good?

 

Did you remove and drain the compressor? Does the compressor turn easily w/ no hint of grinding or heavy resistance? A slight resistance is OK as each cylinder compresses.

Clutch pulley should spin w/ smooth rotation on idler bearing.

You should direct connect 12v to the clutch to confirm that clutch coil will close the clutch plate. Sometimes the clutch gap must be reduced to get clutch plate to close.

You should also replace all orings connecting expansion valve to evaporator and thermal feed back bulb. ackits has an oring kit that has all orings you'll need everywhere.

Generally replace all connection orings. Note, these are oring connections and tightening hard is not necessary. Only firm and be sure to use a backup wrench to resist nut torque and avoid damaging evaporator or condensor.

Use a good oring lubricant on all oring connections. Nylog is best, but compressor oil is acceptable.

Did you

 

I did remove the compressor, I was spinning it and it felt very smooth. No grinding or unhealthy noises coming from it.

What is "Clutch pulley should spin w/ smooth rotation on idler bearing. " ?

Where do I direct the 12v to? To the wire coming out from it?

And how do I confirm that the clutch coil closes the clutch plate?

I apologize for all the questions but this is a part in the car I've never worked on.

I will look around for the orings from ackits.

I forgot to mention, was there a certain 'drain plug' to drain the oil in the compressor or was any oil that was in there supposed to drain out of the ports where the hoses connect?

Nothing drained out where the hoses connect, it was bone dry.

 

I did remove the compressor, I was spinning it and it felt very smooth. No grinding or unhealthy noises coming from it.

What is "Clutch pulley should spin w/ smooth rotation on idler bearing. " ?

Response: Did you spin the clutch face (inner part which is separate from the outer part (clutch pulley). Plate pulls in to connect to pulley and turn compressor. So when you turn the clutch plate you're turning the compressor. When you turn the clutch pulley, it's rotating on an idler bearing.

Where do I direct the 12v to?
Response: To the wire coming out from it? +12V goes to the single wire. You will also need a negative path (ground return) connected to the compressor body.

And how do I confirm that the clutch coil closes the clutch plate?
Response: You will see/hear the clutch plate slam against the clutch pulley. If nothing happens, the clutch gap is too large or clutch coil is failed open.

I apologize for all the questions but this is a part in the car I've never worked on.

I will look around for the orings from ackits.

I forgot to mention, was there a certain 'drain plug' to drain the oil in the compressor or was any oil that was in there supposed to drain out of the ports where the hoses connect?
Response: No, there is no drain plug. Removing old oil requires the flushing w/ air or air+solvent (laquer thinner). If there is no evidence of compressor debris, I would suggest using a small amount of laquer thinner to clean hoses and condensor. Evaporator is more difficult to clean, but a small amount of laquer thinner would clean any old oil. Many pressurize/pop release fllushes are required to get all laquer thinner/oil out. When you vacuum any residual laquer thinner will evaporate.

Nothing drained out where the hoses connect, it was bone dry.
Response:I would still flush w/ air+solvent to clean them since they may have been open for a long time.

Good Luck

 

Okay Texas, I connected power to it. Once I did, I could hear a noise. I'm guessing that is the part grabbing. But once I give it power is it normal for me not to be able to spin it by hand? I couldn't put too much pressure on it to try to spin it because the awkward position I was in giving it ground and power. But I wouldn't spin easy like it would spin without anything connected to it. Please tell me that's not a bad thing.

I was at autozone today to pick up my new Receiver and I saw they had a pack with about 25 different sized orings from the ac so I bought them. All I need to do now is buy the :

Ac oil
Nylog
Refridgerant


And something to clean the hoses/condenser with. What specific solvent or cleaner would you recommend ?

 

You should be able to turn by hand w/ slight resistance that changes w/ rotation. Low resistance, then slightly higher, and repeat. This is each cylinder compressing gas. If there is substantial and continuous resistance, the compressor is likely damaged. If you tested w/ the clutch engaged you were trying to turn the drive belt also! Only turn the inner clutch plate by hand w/ the clutch disengaged to test.

Have you drained the old receiver/drier and flushed condensor to look for gray/silvery residue? This would be further evidence of compressor damage.

A used compressor can be had for $50-$100. Stick w/ used and don't be tempted by rebuilt. They have too high failure rates in my experience, admittedly been a few years since I bought a compressor.

good luck

 

I took a cap off of the compressor and I saw hat there were little metal shavings . The inner part doesnt turn when I give it 12v so I am guessing that it doesnt work and I need to buy another. I returned all of the parts that I bought and bought a Catalytic!

It came in yesterday and I replaced it.

I will try to buy everything again once it gets unbearably hot this summer in LA.

Thank you for all our help TexasHonda, Youre amazing! I will follow up on this thread when I buy the parts again.