I am thrilled to report that my TCU repair was a success! At least so far.

I would like to say Thanks to everone who contributed information on this site and other website posting.

My sport button works again and the car now shifts out correctly!
Drove it around tonight for ~ 30 minutes and everything works perfectly!

I only hooked up the circuit board to the two harnesses & carefully positioned it so that it would not touch any metal.
And only after carfully checking that the board doesn't actually ground via the enclosure(no brads around screw holes).
So I determined it would be safe to try it that way.

I did this so I could observe and quickly disconnect battery at the first sign of a problem. Dont want to let the smoke out!

After parking and cutting it off I delicately felt of the resistors and caps I had replaced thinking they might be hot.
To my suprise NO! They were all cool to the touch immediately after cutting off the vehicle. Which rocks!

Now I feel confident enough to reassemble the board in the box and permiantly reinstall the repair.


Side note to roader... Your last suggestion only works if the resistors aren't bad/burnt!

The values you posted above are incorrect!

Everone should make sure to verify they have the correct information before attempting this repair so that you do not fry your board.


I have posted the correct resistor values in an earlier post above for anyone who cant make out the smaller resistors.

Also I bought 10 of the 4.3ohm R43's but mine did not look to be bad so I did not pull it. Local shops like RadioShack do not carry this value. IF you need one just let me know I will prob never use these. I also have the other two I mentioned. RadioS. did have the 15ohm 1/2 watts.5 for $1.50
Digikey via USPS was the best way to get CAPS... RS had none of them. I went 50v on all caps and although slightly larger they fit well!
Searching for CAPS on digikey can be confusing, lots of choices, If you want my Digikey part# list let me know.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Two weeks/months/years from now someone will be looking for the same information. It would be nice if this info were available:

• R41 Brown Green Black Gold Gold 15 Ohm 5% ?? Watt
• R42 Brown Green Black Gold Gold 15 Ohm 5% ?? Watt
• R43 Yellow Orange Gold Gold 4.3 Ohm 5% ?? Watt
• R46 Yellow Violet Brown Gold 470 Ohm 5% ?? Watt
• R47 Brown Black Orange Gold 10K Ohm 5% ?? Watt
• C28 220uF 50 Volt 105C (??)
• C??
• C??
• C??
• etc.

Since you have that info, please post it. Also, please include the TCU Honda part number i.e., 28100-PXO-823, in your post.

 

I have already posted the correct resistor values for the smaller ones in an earlier post.

My Repaired TCU's Honda part # 28100-PXO-931-M1 3LZ LOT# 9Z05U

As for the CAPS. They are as follows. Note: Even if they dont look bad I'd replace them.

220uf C28
330uf C32
33uf C33
4.7uf C27
1uf C5

I went with 50v on all of them. Fit & Height was not a problem

Might be overkill but the OEM volt ones did not hold up!
And proof is in the pudding. it is working cold to the touch.
Even after driving the vehicle around for some time.

O' and here is my Digikey parts list. This doesn't include three of the resistors I sourced elsewhere.
(RadioShack Resistor assortment pack had 10k & 470's I already had from a previous job + 5pak 15ohm 1/2watt)

4.7uf 493-4506-1-ND $0.70
1.0uf 493-4505-1-ND $0.63
33uf UBT1H330MPD-ND $0.53
220uf 493-13385-ND $1.02
330uf 493-4509-1-ND $1.28
4.3ohm S4.3QCT-ND Qty10 $0.55

They charged 28 cents tax and 2.72 usps first class mail took ~ 2 days.

If you already have soildering equipment - all told this repair costed me about $8 or $9 bucks.

One other thing. The caps I ordered have a longer life / temp rating then the origional.
When i noticed they had different choices I went higher on that spec as well. This info is visible in Digikey's charts.