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ball joints, power locks

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  #1  
Old 05-05-2012 | 08:57 AM
jessecolter's Avatar
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From: Minocqua, Wisconsin
Default ball joints, power locks

Ball Joints - I've replaced upper and lower balljoints several times, maybe I'm getting the cheap ones online but I just had alignment so I know they can't be too bad but mostly the upper control arms don't seem to stay quiet too long. Do they make ones with a zurk for greasing them or do people use a needle or what?

Power Locks - I'm in the dark on this one, I took the notorious drivers door panel off to adjust the window and since haven't had power locks, I've replaced the fuse under the hood even though it was fine, replaced both switches and some of the locks not all, but tried having one by one unplugged, even replaced the little gray box in the drivers door and no response. Before I "take it in" is there anything else that anyone would try?
 
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Old 05-05-2012 | 10:33 AM
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Stock ride height on the car?

Have you tested the inputs to the lock "controler"? Do you have a volt meter and a bit of time.
 
  #3  
Old 05-05-2012 | 10:37 AM
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Yes stock height, is the lock controller the grey plastic box in the drivers door? Yeah I have a volt meter and some time.
 
  #4  
Old 05-05-2012 | 11:09 AM
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With stock height, I don't know why they would wear or start to make noise. Have you tried to lube the "anchor pins".


Try testing the inputs to the control....
 
Attached Thumbnails ball joints, power locks-4th-gen-door-lock-cont-inputs.jpg  
  #5  
Old 05-05-2012 | 11:34 AM
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Is the noise from the pivot point at the bushings, or the upper ball joint?
 
  #6  
Old 05-05-2012 | 01:43 PM
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Thanks I'll do some testing on the locks. The noise is from the actual upper ball joint. The rubber is torn from taking them off at home so I'm sure it's just all dry and dusty but they seem to do this even before it's torn. I was going to get some poly bushings instead of the rubber, and new control arms if needed but I was hoping there more of a performance version. Thanks!
 
  #7  
Old 05-05-2012 | 03:18 PM
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When you tighten the two bolts for the pivots, you want t have the car at the normal riding height.

There are two ways to do this. Put the tire on, lower the car, then tighten those pivots. The problem is that there is not much room to tighten the bolts this way.

The way I have done it is to put my car on a jack stand. Then I put my jack under the lower control arm. I lift up the control arm until the car just barely lifts off of the jack stand. That is the normal riding height with the weight of the car on the spring. Then the bushings are tight at the resting position.

Hope this makes sense.

Good Luck
 
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