RESOLVED.
Issue was drained out over night “sometimes”.
Then tried the parasitic voltage drop check and found in about as should be~no excessive drop in V or Amps..
Then tried the alternator output, saw it was “changing” from 12.90V and sometimes to 14.4V.
off and on.
Thought the DVM was flakes. So I started checking the connections Alternator and other places. and saw they appeared OK.
Had a spare alt from a parts car.
Went to remove the current alt thinking the regulator was failing with varied outputs.
While removing it, saw the pulley on the crankshaft was wiggling a small amount.
So checked it closer to inner rim with Alt belt had “delaminated” apart some causing slippage and inducing varying voltages outputs from slippage!!
Went to advanced, bought a new “Dorman” Part for $73.00. installed it and problem SOLVED.
*NOTE* There is an epoxy that ppl used to repair the puller . On YT there are several videos showing how to easily with a little work clean up ans 6 bucks for the epoxy.
So this one was a sneaky one as I though wire issues of bad connection possibly still.
The varying voltage threw mw off a bit as it suspected a bad DVM and almost bought another one.
WHEW!
Pays to sniff a round and look at Everything in the entire system”
Hope it helps someone out somewhere.

 

You don't say what year car, but for something newer than about 1994, this can cause even more confusing issues...

Spark timing marks are on the flywheel for older Accords, but starting about that time the timing marks are on the outer rim of the crankshaft pulley. A slipping pulley can give you fits when you're checking the spark timing!

 

It is a 1993, 2.2 engine, there is NO magnetic pick up on the balancer-damper inside the cover..
My scenario , it had started to come apart slowly and over a few weeks or a bit longer on/off occurrence, , the drained battery appeared to be a small parasitic electrical leak.
Check the pulley for integrity at the rubber insert point.
This caught me in a surprise and was not looking for this specific thing, only when I took off the belt to change a used ALT did I see the loose hub in pieces.

 

One last thing, there is a cool Pulley bolt socket that is about $23 bucks, its 4 times “thicker" and a basic impact will remove the 19MM bolt from the pulley.
Look on YT for this what it works like, way easier, and can buy it many places now like EBAY or maybe location stores.

 

On my 99 Accord with a 2.3L I-4 engine, I had the pulley come loose, and the key come out. This changed the timing, and wore the key groove to 4 times it's normal size. I bought the car this way, and replaced the pulley and key. I've been driving it since, but I also replaced the timing belts afterward, because I wanted to make sure the engine was still ok (they are interference engines after all). Just something to be aware of IF you don't get the crank bolt torqued to 150 FT lbs.

 

No I didn't mean the CKP sensor & pulser ring, I mean the little V-notches that you shine a timing light on when checking your timing. Those also move around randomly when the outer part of the pulley is slipping like yours...

 

Never realized or checked that one thing.
I would think the v notch is directly related to the cm-crank timing belt tension . Perhaps can wander some of the belt has a small issue that is loose and torque in rev up or down will make it move due to tension changes on belt tension.?