And use PB-Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench - any of these work better than WD-40. Allow time for it to soak.

 

To break it loose, you and try an 8 mm 6-point socket and ratchet wrench. Be careful, because too much leverage on the bleeder, you will shear it off (guess how I know?).

Search youtube for a video called How to Remove a Stuck Brake Bleeder Screw. This may give you some ideas on what to try to remove the bleeder.

You may have to replace the drum brake cylinder in your picture if you can bleed.

An alternative is to bleed the system from the brake line going to the drum brake cylinder. It is not ideal, but may be a better option than getting a new drum brake cylinder.

If you are able to remove the bleeder, you should clean the threads with a wire brush or wire wheel. Use a light coating of grease on the threads of the bleeder to prevent future corrosion.

Let us know if you are successful in removing the bleeder.

 

Guys, thanks for all your suggestions. I started with removing a rear wheel. The lug nuts were on very tight, I could loosen only 2 out of 5. I squirted PB Blaster, waited for a while and with all my might I was just barely able to loosen all 5. I'm using a 22" cross lug wrench. As I age, I find that my strength is diminishing. Maybe I should look at getting a larger lug wrench for more torque. In any case after removing the tire I had better access to the bleeder nut. I couldn't fit the socket wrench in there. So I tried again with the combo wrench. With a few very light taps with a hammer the nut moved. Similarly I was able to loosen the nut on the other rear wheel. Surprisingly, the bleeder nipple cap I had "lost" a couple of days ago was still lodged in the wheel crevice even though I had driven since then. This is just as well. The dealer charges $6 for just this tiny bit of rubber.

I was quite tired after the dry run on the two rear wheels. The dry run on the front wheels will have to wait another day. I should mention that I'm working in my garage. For the front wheels I'd be backing into the garage rather than head-in parking so that the front wheels are closer to the garage opening which will provide more light and more working room. This brings me to the next question. When I go for the actual brake fluid flush, I may have to do the same, meaning, move the car head-in or head-out in order to position the wheel to be done close to the garage opening. Will moving the car in between each bleed compromise the integrity of the flush? As an extension to this question, if I do 2 wheels one day, can I do the other 2 wheels on a different day, having driven the car in the interim?

I could not find the capacity of the brake system in the owner's manual. Can somebody confirm that it is enough to have on hand two 12 fl oz bottles of brake fluid?

 

I always buy a quart for fluid change. I have never done a split change. If you make sure that all new fluid is in the reservoir once doing the rear then you will be fine. Just make sure you bleed enough when doing the front so that all new fluid is in the reservoir when you are done with the front. That means bleeding more on the first one than the other to ensure you are running clean guild through. You may want to buy 2 qts just to make sure you have enough since you want to split the bleed. You shouldn't need the second qt though

 

I had done the dry run on the rear wheels first because the car was already parked head-in and the rear wheels were close to the garage entrance. When I perform the actual change, I intend to do the front wheels first because that's what Honda recommends.

I was able to remove the driver's side front wheel. The bleed nut is 10 mm and I was able to loosen it with the same technique, meaning light taps of the hammer against the combo wrench. I don't think the bleeder threads are rusted or frozen otherwise light hammer taps would not have been enough to loosen them.

Unfortunately, I was unable to remove the passenger side front wheel as all 5 lug nuts are on very tight. I did a search on the internet on lug wrenches. I didn't find any that are bigger than the lug wrench I'm already using. I'll let PB Blaster work overnight and give it another try tomorrow.

 

I didn't know Honda recommended front wheels first. It's always been common practice to do further wheel to closest from the master cylinder. That means passenger/rear, driver/rear, passenger/front, driver/front in a Honda. I use a Dewalt impact which is more than enough for my toughest jobs. I have had lugnuts I had to drill out though. Let us know if you need any more assistance with you fluid change

 

Sean, by Dewalt impact, do you mean something like this ...

 

The above link may yield a blank screen. The product description to search on is

DEWALT 20V MAX Impact Driver Kit, 1/4-Inch (DCF885C1)

 

This is the exact one I've had for years

 

Generally, you'll want to get a 1/2 drive impact wrench. I have a Milwaukee one. What is great about a impact wrench is that you don't have to loosen the lug nuts before you jack up the car. You can loosen and remove the lug nuts after the car is jacked up. Saves time and effort. Rotating tires, etc. become much easier and faster.

The 1/4 drive impact driver may be okay for around the home diy projects; but, not that much for auto repair jobs.