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About the brake-bleeding order...
Furthest wheel first, then diagonally, was the conventional way before ABS.
With ABS the bleeding order comes from which line is more or less likely to push air bubbles into which other line. And that depends on exactly how the plumbing is arranged around & inside the ABS modulator.
And I do remember (for 6th and 7th generation Accords) the order is LF - RF - RR - LR. That's because I've owned 1998 and 2003 Accords and have done brake flushing quite a few times.
About the brake-bleeding order...
Furthest wheel first, then diagonally, was the conventional way before ABS.
With ABS the bleeding order comes from which line is more or less likely to push air bubbles into which other line. And that depends on exactly how the plumbing is arranged around & inside the ABS modulator.
And I do remember (for 6th and 7th generation Accords) the order is LF - RF - RR - LR. That's because I've owned 1998 and 2003 Accords and have done brake flushing quite a few times.
That is some good info. I've always bled from furthest from master to closest. Never had an issue but they tell you the order for a reason. I just replaced my calibers, brakes and rotors on my 07 and would of done it the correct way if I knew it. All is still well though. Next time I'll try doing it the right way to see if it makes a difference
Sean and Redbull, thanks for the info on the impact driver. Sean, your impact wrench picture says "tool only". Does it mean one has to buy a charger and battery separately? Will regular metric sockets work on this wrench or are special sockets required?
Jim, thanks for confirming the LF/RF/RR/LR order. Indeed I have a 2003 Accord with ABS. I've been watching some youtube videos. There's one by EricTheCarGuy. He says he likes to start with the wheel closest to the cylinder and then work his way to the farthest. He also points out that some people like the reverse order and there's nothing wrong with that. However, IMHO if the manufacturer has stated a preferred order then that's the one to follow.
Sean and Redbull, thanks for the info on the impact driver. Sean, your impact wrench picture says "tool only". Does it mean one has to buy a charger and battery separately? Will regular metric sockets work on this wrench or are special sockets required?
Jim, thanks for confirming the LF/RF/RR/LR order. Indeed I have a 2003 Accord with ABS. I've been watching some youtube videos. There's one by EricTheCarGuy. He says he likes to start with the wheel closest to the cylinder and then work his way to the farthest. He also points out that some people like the reverse order and there's nothing wrong with that. However, IMHO if the manufacturer has stated a preferred order then that's the one to follow.
Yes the battery and charger you have to buy separately. If you search it without the B at the end of the model number it comes with everything. I just like buying bare because I have chargers and batteries already. You can find them cheaper on eBay if you want to. You can use any sockets but I would advise you to go to Harbor Frieght to get a cheap set of impact sockets. They are $20 until 7 Sep. regular price is $25
Last edited by Seanjordan20; 09-04-2020 at 09:28 PM.
Sean, thanks for this info. In the meantime, I got another idea. I called up the shop that had performed the last tire rotation and explained that the wheel nuts were on too tight. Initially he said that this was a year ago and if I had oil changed in the meantime, that shop could have rotated the tires. Truthfully, no body else had rotated the tires in the interim. Then he relented and said he could loosen them and then re-tighten them to specs. I said ok. After he was done retorquing them to 80 foot-pounds, I discovered that I could easily loosen them with my lug wrench. It is clear to me that when his technicians performed the wheel rotation, they did not adhere to specs and could well have tightened the nuts to 100 foot-pounds or more. When I arrived home I took off this last remaining wheel, and again with a few taps of the hammer was able to loosen the bleed screw. I have also figured out that by using a light and moving some garage items around it is possible to access all the 4 bleed screws without repositioning the car. With the dry run completed, I anticipate the actual flush will go more quickly and I might even be done in a single work session. Will keep you posted.
I got shipment of the brake bleeder kit (see first pic) yesterday so I set out to proceed with it today. The kit came with different size rubber adapters (see 2nd pic) that are meant to sit on top of the bleeder nipple/nozzle. Unfortunately, they were too loose for both the the front and the back. I went to Autozone and Advance Auto Parts hoping to get smaller adapters. Neither of them stock such adapters. I happened to look at their bleeder kits on the shelf. Autozone's adapters (as part of the kit) were even bigger than mine. Advance Auto Parts adapters were exactly the same size as mine. What are my options at this point?
I also noticed the kit came with what looks like 2 O-rings but the instructions don't say how they're supposed to be used in the brake flush process. Another thing I noticed was that the cap that goes on the cup to catch the fluid is not secure enough and is very easy to knock loose, so I'd have to be very careful.
Generally, the rubber boots will never get a completely airtight seal. They will still function though. Usually you put some silicone grease around the bleeder nipple and then put the rubber boot on to help seal it. I have a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder that use those similar rubber boots.
If you want a tighter seal, use the tube without the rubber boot like Seanjordan20 suggested.
Sean and Redbull, thanks for your suggestions. The tubing does fit the nipples, front better than the rear so I might also have to use silicone grease. I finally located a groove built into the cup where the O-ring can be placed. Just out of curiosity, I went to the kit listing page on Amazon to search for what people had to say about the O-ring. Many customers said that the O-ring is good for only one use because it rapidly deteriorates after contact with the brake fluid. Also, it is not a standard O-ring. It has a flat cross-section rather than a circular one, so one can't find an after-market one.
09-04-2020, 08:18 PM
