brake bleeding
#1
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
brake bleeding
I would like to say thank you in advance for any and all information provided...
- I have a 94 accord EX 4dr automatic with 88k miles on it ( bought from my mom who rarely drove it ). I recently changed the brake rotors and pads on all four corners and since then I've had a problem the brake pedal going to the firewall when the car is stopped ( bleed down ). The car also requires a few pumps on the pedal to stop like it used to. Hereis the strange part of it, if I slam on the brake pedal the car comes to a stop almost immediately with no problem( ABS works perfectly and brakes hold strong with no fade). I just tried to bleed the system again and Iget fluid out of the left front and right rear calipers but nothing from the right front or left rear ...
- Could there be a clog in the system, is the Master Cylinder bad ? Could there stil be air in the system ? ( I bled from right rear then to front left to left rear to right front)
I appreciate the help
- I have a 94 accord EX 4dr automatic with 88k miles on it ( bought from my mom who rarely drove it ). I recently changed the brake rotors and pads on all four corners and since then I've had a problem the brake pedal going to the firewall when the car is stopped ( bleed down ). The car also requires a few pumps on the pedal to stop like it used to. Hereis the strange part of it, if I slam on the brake pedal the car comes to a stop almost immediately with no problem( ABS works perfectly and brakes hold strong with no fade). I just tried to bleed the system again and Iget fluid out of the left front and right rear calipers but nothing from the right front or left rear ...
- Could there be a clog in the system, is the Master Cylinder bad ? Could there stil be air in the system ? ( I bled from right rear then to front left to left rear to right front)
I appreciate the help
#2
RE: brake bleeding
If no fluid comes from bleeders on RF & LR calipers, they are likely plugged w/ rust. I would simply remove the bleeders and replace them. I think you'll see fluid come out when bleeder is removed. A rubber cap on the bleeder will prevent this problem in future. Once you've replaced the bleeders, you should be able to completely bleed the system.
If the brake pedal weakness continues after properly bleeding the brake system, you may have a failed master cylinder piston that is bypassing fluid (internal leak).
good luck
If the brake pedal weakness continues after properly bleeding the brake system, you may have a failed master cylinder piston that is bypassing fluid (internal leak).
good luck
#4
RE: brake bleeding
Sounds to me like you have both problems.
Plugged lines or plugged bleeder valves to account for no fluid coming out of those calipers.
But the plugged lines won't explain the pedal fading to the floor. You probably ALSO have a bad master cylinder.
Plugged lines or plugged bleeder valves to account for no fluid coming out of those calipers.
But the plugged lines won't explain the pedal fading to the floor. You probably ALSO have a bad master cylinder.
#5
RE: brake bleeding
I have a vintage Mercedes (1959) and we have a very active car club and forum. A lot of owners have had problems with plugged or constricting rubber brake lines. The symptom is usually that the car pulls to one side or the brakes don't release.
This doesn't sound like your problem but I wanted to share the symptoms with you and a few other points. The challenge with a constricted line is that a visual inspection will not reveal it. Unfortunately the lines need to be removed and then blow through them. Most of our MB members replace their rubber lines every 10 years or so. Like your car, the vintage cars are usually not driven very often which may accelerate the problem. Less use on a car is usally tougher than daily driving.
I frequently keep my everyday vehicles 10-14 years and 150k+ miles and have never replaced a brake hose or brake line. I try and flush the brake system every few years. In fact Volvo recommends every two years for their cars.
This doesn't sound like your problem but I wanted to share the symptoms with you and a few other points. The challenge with a constricted line is that a visual inspection will not reveal it. Unfortunately the lines need to be removed and then blow through them. Most of our MB members replace their rubber lines every 10 years or so. Like your car, the vintage cars are usually not driven very often which may accelerate the problem. Less use on a car is usally tougher than daily driving.
I frequently keep my everyday vehicles 10-14 years and 150k+ miles and have never replaced a brake hose or brake line. I try and flush the brake system every few years. In fact Volvo recommends every two years for their cars.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post