Bypass heater hose repalcement 1991 EX
#12
John-yes, sorry shouldn't have put it that way. But when under the t-stat and fighting even getting to them, sometimes getting the lock vs just getting the dang thing "open" can be a pain...I'll edit.
EDIT:No John-you are correct, even the small ones can lock..just a PIA. I just saw you last post.
EDIT:No John-you are correct, even the small ones can lock..just a PIA. I just saw you last post.
Last edited by poorman212; 10-04-2011 at 10:12 PM.
#14
OK looks as if my hoses have two different types of "factory" hose clamps. A few of the larger ones have a "male" tab with a bend it that can hook into the "female" tab. Most of them, especially the small ones, just have a straight tab which can "mate" with the hollow but not stay hooked. It is a 20 year old car so who knows what's factory original and isn't. I was able to confirm the leak is in the "U" hose that bypasses the thermostat. It is a pin hole right at the hose clamp. I will work on getting this hose off and replace it using the worm style clamps.
BTW this car has a radiator cap marked with 11 on the tab even though everything I read says the PSI should be between 14 and 16 lbs. However when I try 16 lbs, I start springing these leaks. Is there any problem with running the 11 lb old radiator cap?
Thanks,
Bob
BTW this car has a radiator cap marked with 11 on the tab even though everything I read says the PSI should be between 14 and 16 lbs. However when I try 16 lbs, I start springing these leaks. Is there any problem with running the 11 lb old radiator cap?
Thanks,
Bob
#15
I changed the hose today, it was doable from the top with some long handled, 90 degree bend needle nose pliers. Got it together and sprang a leak on the small hose that goes into the air chamber under the throttle body. Replaced that one and for now all is tight. I'll keep a close eye on the other small hoses and if a leak developes somewhere else I'll just change out all the hoses I haven't done yet.
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Bob
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Bob
#16
Glad you got it...thanks for getting back.
BTW-let me guess the "bigger" end of the hose had the locking and the smaller did not...now that I think a little more, at "some" size they went from locking to squeeze.
Hope you were able to position the worm clamps to make re-assy easier?
Last, if you didn't-I would suggest bleeding the air out of the cooling system just to be sure.
BTW-let me guess the "bigger" end of the hose had the locking and the smaller did not...now that I think a little more, at "some" size they went from locking to squeeze.
Hope you were able to position the worm clamps to make re-assy easier?
Last, if you didn't-I would suggest bleeding the air out of the cooling system just to be sure.
#17
Yes the larger radiator hose clamps all have the locking feature, everything smaller does not. One end had more open room around it than the other. The tighter one interfered with the manifold so I used a spring type clamp on that end, worm on the more open end. Wife used the car last night and returned with no leaks!
Yes I bled the thermostat after the warm up. That's a nice feature. I have an older (1985) MB diesel and bleeding is much trickier.
Bob
Yes I bled the thermostat after the warm up. That's a nice feature. I have an older (1985) MB diesel and bleeding is much trickier.
Bob
#19
You are correct!
A careful second look shows the decimal point. I suspect this is the radiator cap that shipped with the car 20 years ago. I guess because of the numerous hose leaks I assumed the 16 lbs. was a pressure problem and apparently it wasn't.
Thanks for the followup,
Bob
A careful second look shows the decimal point. I suspect this is the radiator cap that shipped with the car 20 years ago. I guess because of the numerous hose leaks I assumed the 16 lbs. was a pressure problem and apparently it wasn't.
Thanks for the followup,
Bob
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