A/C Heater dash lights HVAC Climate Control
#1
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
A/C Heater dash lights HVAC Climate Control
Has anyone experienced this?
When driving with the A/C on, all of a sudden I get just hot air. I look at my AC/Heater controls and all the lights are off. I turn the blower speed **** to off and wait. About 1 to 2 minutes later, the lights come back on and I have A/C again. Anyone seen this before and know what's causing it?
Thanks
When driving with the A/C on, all of a sudden I get just hot air. I look at my AC/Heater controls and all the lights are off. I turn the blower speed **** to off and wait. About 1 to 2 minutes later, the lights come back on and I have A/C again. Anyone seen this before and know what's causing it?
Thanks
#2
RE: A/C Heater dash lights HVAC
Sorry, I have the climate control system.
All I can recommend here is that you put that car info in your sgnature so more people will respond to your thread.
Sounds like an electornic control problem.
All I can recommend here is that you put that car info in your sgnature so more people will respond to your thread.
Sounds like an electornic control problem.
#3
RE: A/C Heater dash lights HVAC Climate Control
that could be a # of things,, ( relay, switch, poor connection,pressure switch, clutch gap to big, thermostatic switch ) ... it should be properly diagnosed ,,
when a/c cuts out chk to see if there is any power at the red wire going to the compressor ,, this will tell us if problem is at compressor coil or upstream the other way,, If you do not get power at the red wire,, swap the compressor clutch relay , it is located in the underhood fuse box . also one quick thing you might do, is to remove the fuses # 58, 20 amp underhood box ,,# 3, 7.5 amps driver's fuse box, and fuse # 13, 7.5 amps passenger under dash fuse box .. twist the little tabs and reinstall them again ,, thus eliminating a possible poor connection at fuses ..
Try this and keep us posted
Now that i re-read his post again it sounds like an issue with the heater control panel loosing its ground ( lites come off ) some of the stuff i metioned above would not make the lite go off ,, try one other thing,, left side of dash above the kick panel, next to the OBD2 connector there is a ground ( g401 ) make sure that the bolt is tight and there is no corrosion,, that is the main ground for the heater control panel ..you might want to unbolt it and clean the metal below the wire and the wire ( black wire ) to make sure that they make a good contact
when a/c cuts out chk to see if there is any power at the red wire going to the compressor ,, this will tell us if problem is at compressor coil or upstream the other way,, If you do not get power at the red wire,, swap the compressor clutch relay , it is located in the underhood fuse box . also one quick thing you might do, is to remove the fuses # 58, 20 amp underhood box ,,# 3, 7.5 amps driver's fuse box, and fuse # 13, 7.5 amps passenger under dash fuse box .. twist the little tabs and reinstall them again ,, thus eliminating a possible poor connection at fuses ..
Try this and keep us posted
Now that i re-read his post again it sounds like an issue with the heater control panel loosing its ground ( lites come off ) some of the stuff i metioned above would not make the lite go off ,, try one other thing,, left side of dash above the kick panel, next to the OBD2 connector there is a ground ( g401 ) make sure that the bolt is tight and there is no corrosion,, that is the main ground for the heater control panel ..you might want to unbolt it and clean the metal below the wire and the wire ( black wire ) to make sure that they make a good contact
#7
Always best to post your own thread w/ your own symptoms.
If your symptoms are same as OP, then most likely source of problem is compressor clutch gap is too large. When it heats up, the gap is too large for mag field to pull closed. When it cools down, there is just enough field strength to close the plate.
A good test when the compressor will not engage is to rap the clutch plate firmly w/ a stick (very carefully) while engine is running. If clutch plate closes and compressor turns, then excessive clutch plate gap is confirmed.
good luck
If your symptoms are same as OP, then most likely source of problem is compressor clutch gap is too large. When it heats up, the gap is too large for mag field to pull closed. When it cools down, there is just enough field strength to close the plate.
A good test when the compressor will not engage is to rap the clutch plate firmly w/ a stick (very carefully) while engine is running. If clutch plate closes and compressor turns, then excessive clutch plate gap is confirmed.
good luck
#9
Have not seen solution as of yet...
Hello,
I have a 2000 Accord 4-Door. I have experienced the above symptoms and have looked at the grounding bolt described above. In my case the bolt appears clear of corrosion as do the seven or eight, forgot to count , connections attached to it.
The symptoms used to be that the lights on the A/C panel would flicker then go out, eventually coming back on. As of a few days ago they stopped turning back on all together. When the lights are out so is the A/C, and I have no control over which vents are active.
Last night I noticed that the bottom row of buttons, recirculation, A/C, Defrost, were dark all together while the top row, the vent selection controls, were still backlit.
Does anyone have a pin-out guide to the molar connector on the back of the ventilation controls. I would like to troubleshoot this as far as I can and it seems a good starting place to look at the connections to the controls themselves.
Thanks,
Joe
I have a 2000 Accord 4-Door. I have experienced the above symptoms and have looked at the grounding bolt described above. In my case the bolt appears clear of corrosion as do the seven or eight, forgot to count , connections attached to it.
The symptoms used to be that the lights on the A/C panel would flicker then go out, eventually coming back on. As of a few days ago they stopped turning back on all together. When the lights are out so is the A/C, and I have no control over which vents are active.
Last night I noticed that the bottom row of buttons, recirculation, A/C, Defrost, were dark all together while the top row, the vent selection controls, were still backlit.
Does anyone have a pin-out guide to the molar connector on the back of the ventilation controls. I would like to troubleshoot this as far as I can and it seems a good starting place to look at the connections to the controls themselves.
Thanks,
Joe
#10
Possible resolution
Has anyone experienced this?
When driving with the A/C on, all of a sudden I get just hot air. I look at my AC/Heater controls and all the lights are off. I turn the blower speed **** to off and wait. About 1 to 2 minutes later, the lights come back on and I have A/C again. Anyone seen this before and know what's causing it?
Thanks
When driving with the A/C on, all of a sudden I get just hot air. I look at my AC/Heater controls and all the lights are off. I turn the blower speed **** to off and wait. About 1 to 2 minutes later, the lights come back on and I have A/C again. Anyone seen this before and know what's causing it?
Thanks
I think I'll tear the old control apart, and see what I find.
I will repost if I gain any insight.
Drive Safe!