I have filled the A/C system with Freon (R134a) up to the limit (blue range of the gageconnectedtothe refill kit), still didn't get enough cold air from the vent. I didn't detect any leakage, and the low pressure port was still pressurized when I was pumping the freon into it so that I didn't over charge it. Is there any possible leakage somewhere or something I am not aware of?

Appreciate any comments!

 

These kits are a rip-off. Chances of obtaining a lasting repair are not good.

Did you fix the original fault that caused AC system to not cool? If not, how can you expect just the addition of refrigerant and oil to "fix" your AC.

Fixing the AC system on Accords is not terribly difficult, but a lot more effort than simply introducing R134a + lubricant. If you want to do it right, I'll provide a guideline but it will require purchase of a few parts, tools and a bit of labor.

good luck

 

Thanks a lot, TexasHonda! Please highlight the steps of fixing it, and I have never done the AC system and planning to turn the wrech again on it.

Thanks again!

 

I would recommend purchasing an Auto AC Repair manual. Haynes and Mastercool have manuals that are excellent. You can never have too much reference material IMO. You also need the Honda Accord Shop Manual for your model. You can download a 94-97 Accord manual from http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/. A good reference site for Auto AC problems is ackits.com, in addition to Honda Accord Forum.

1) Repair Leaks
First step is find the leaks and repair them. You can add one can of R134a w/ UV dye and use a UV light to find the leaks. Even R12 systems can use R134a w/ dye for leak detection as it's removed before charging. Run AC only long enough to pull in charge. Don't run AC while waiting/searching for leaks. Leaks under the hood can usually be spotted by simply looking for dirt/oil buildup at the leak site, or a ring of dirt/oil slung out by a leaking compressor shaft seal. I've found most of my leaks w/ this visual method.Another option is to pay a good AC shop to perform a leak detection and report leak sites. Armed w/ location of leaks, repair them. W/ Hondas that I've had, it's been orings mostly, w one compressor shaft seal. You should remove old lubricant at this time bydraining compressor,air-blasting condensor in-place, and draining evaporator when removed. When you replace the receiver/drier (later) most of the old lubricant will have been removed.

2) Replace System Orings
Open all connections and replace orings. AC oring kits are available from ackits.com or other sources such a ebay. Use only orings rated for AC service. This work should include pulling the evaporator and replacing all the expansion valve and thermal feedback orings. Use Nylog or petroleum jelly to lubricate orings before closing the joints.

3) Install Receiver/Drier, Lubricant and Close System
Last step before closing the system is to replace the receiver/drier, and install lubricant (7-8 oz) in receiver/drier, condensor,and compressor. I like the BVA100 from ackits.com for R134a and mineral oil is only lubricant for R12. Where the lubricant is placed is not as important as getting it all into the system.

4) Add Adapter Fittings for R134a Retrofit
For a retrofit, add quality replacement adapter fittings to existing R12 low and high side fittings.

5) Final Vacuum Leak Check
Connect vacuum pump, pull full vacuum w/ pump for 5 minutes, and close manifold gauge set valves. Watch the vacuum gauge on the low side gauge. It should not move or perhaps settle just slightly and hold. I wait at least 15 minutes to be sure on this leak check step. This is final step before committing to charge the system. If it leaks down, you have a leak that must be repaired before proceeding.

6) Vacuum Drying
Open High and Low side valves on manifold set, and engage vacuum pump. I like to vacuum for at least 1 hour, but others use less time. This is an important step to completely remove any moisture from the AC system. Moisture and refrigerants cause acids that will damage the AC system. Receiver/drier will scavengethe small amount of moisture that is absorbed through hoses w/ time.

7) Charge w/ Refrigerant
Start engine and hold 1500rpm. I use a board between seat and gas pedal to hold rpm. Set ACon AC-on, cold temp, max fan andrecirculate. Park car in shade w/ doors and windows closed. Purge all three charge hoses of any trapped air by cracking connections at AC manifold gauge set. Charge into vacuum through low side only w/ specification amount of R12 or R134a. For a retrofit ~85% of R12 capacity of R134a. Compressor will engage when enough refrigerant has entered the system. For a retrofit, start w/ 70% charge and watch your gauges. Low side gauge should be 25-30 psi w/ compressor engaged and high side gauge no higher than (2.5*mean air temp entering condensor in degF) in psi. So 100F= 250psi high side. If high side is low, you can increase R134a charge slowly but no more than 85% of R12 charge in any case. Don't try to charge unless air temp is at least 80F. Use a postal scale to weigh your cans and approximate the correct charge. Same pressure rule applies for original R134a systems, however specified amount should be installed.

8) Enjoy the cool air!

I learned AC repair on my own some 27 yrs ago when I was quoted $700 to repair AC system on a Toyota Corona wagon I had. I made a bunch of mistakes, but eventually found the compressor shaft seal was leaking. I replaced seal and charged successfully. This was before internet so there were no places to ask questions, only learn from my mistakes and read the Haynes Auto AC Repair manual. AC repair is the most financially rewarding auto repair you can perform. If you paid someone to do the above-described work, it would run over $1000 easily. You can buy all your tools andmaterials for < $500 quite easily, and < $250 if you're thrifty. I made my own vacuum pump from a used refrigerator compressor. However good pumps are now available for < $200 so I wouldn't do that again. AC manifold gauge sets are available for well under $100 (http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&category0=). I still have my original Interdynamics R12 set purchased 25 years ago and it works fine.

Good Luck

 

Thanks a lot! TexasHonda, very detailed steps. I was only a little kid 27 yrs ago! Appreciate your valuable personal experience!

 

I would be interested to hear about your repairs.

good luck

 

I'm also having an issue with my A/C. The passenger side still blows cold air maybe not as cold as it should be, but as I move from each vent towards the drivers side the air gets progressively warmer. It doesn’t to seem to matter whether I select defrost, floor, or combination of floor and vents it’s always the same result. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

 

Have you checked the adjustment of the air mix door?

 

This is a symptom of an undercharged system. Always best to start your own thread and identify your model, trim, year.

regards