Z-1 is ok

Below is a lin "comparing" DW 1 and Z 1

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...omparison.html

 

They don't make the Honda Z-1 fluid anymore. I bought DW-1 Fluid. I asked a lot a questions about draining and refill. Talking to the part store guy. He got really angry at me and said " At this point why don't you do what you want to do."
I said if my old fluid is dirty, I asked him if it was a bad idea to put the new stuff in. No, he said just drain it and refill. I don't know man, he just got pissed. He also said they wouldn't make DW-1 fluid if it wasn't designed to work for the older cars. Maybe it's time to call up a Honda Technician. Because if that is synthetic and it's designed to clean. It might be bad.

What i could do is possibly. If I'm low on transmission fluid. I could just put 1 quart in of the DW-1 fluid. And not do the drain and refill.

 

I got my DW from Amazon. I’m new here so I don’t know much about these cars it’s my first Honda. Hope I am doing the right thing.,

 

Yeah, interesting, he has a 1994 honda accord (but he maintained it with Z1 regularly or 27,000 miles). Then he started using DW-1. Maybe the part store guy is right, they wouldn't make it if wasn't designed for all their cars. Even though it might be synthetic. I read some where, mix the old with the new slowly like just add 1 quart of the new stuff and keep the old stuff in there. Then change it again. Then add the new stuff and do drain and refill. I'm going to have to check my levels again.

 

Do a drain and fill. Use DW 1. Problem solved. No problem to mix with the older fluid at all. Been dealing with ATF for decades.

Yep, they don't make Z 1 anymore. But some people have old stock.

 

Yep, you are right (that is probably what I should do). It's starting to shift really hard, it's because I had it on the ramps doing the exhaust and oil pan and oil pan gasket repair. It's probably low. I have to check the levels tomorrow. I might as well drain and refill.


We have similar mileages on our cars. Yours is a 1992 accord mine is a 1993 accord. I have about 220,000 miles on mine. Yours is 204,000 miles. DW is probably the best we have to work with. I think you are doing the right thing. The guy with the 1994 switched out the old transmission (non synthetic) fluid version Z-1 to the DW-1 (synthetic version) and it worked well with him.. As long as it's clean (although I don't know how clean it should look). I'll check mine today and see what I can do. I might just add 1 quart or just drain. I think if mine is clean enough I'll do drain and refill anyways.

Update: I'm not using the DW1 its synthetic too much of a risk. Although the risk would be low just changing 2.5 quarts out of 6 quarts the transmission holds. The Drain and refill 3 times would higher the risk. Putting just 1 quart of DW-1 would lower the risk. I'm going to try and take it back. And go to Oreilly's and use conventional Dexron 3 for my 1993 honda. They have non synthetic versions.

Hmm, the one I want to buy she said wasn't synthetic. But the website says it is synthetic.

Update: I might just use DW1 instead. It's still low risk. It's still a great quality product. I just don't know how much of it is synthetic.

Update: Okay I checked my levels on ground level. They seem to be okay actually. Also I have found various forums claiming that only the Canada version is synthetic. And the USA version isn't. I'm not 100% positive on this.
I'm having exhaust leaks from the front pipe when revving the engine or driving above 25mph sigh***. I was trying to get it warm enough to prepare to drain the fluids..... I have no idea if this information is true or not. Still it's probably best to put 1 quart a time. I haven't done it yet. Not to over do it with new fluids and to remain cautious. There is no mention of "synthetic on the bottle on the US version" And on the Canadian version there is!

Why is 1 quart of new fluid at a time safe (and 1.5 quarts of old fluid). Well, it would dilute it enough to cause too much cleaning to loosen dirt to clog too much breakdown of the deposits to clog the system too much... That is why it's low risk. Don't do it every 50 miles or 100 miles. Do it 10,000 miles and safely change it then. I like to play it safe, through hours of research on the internet.