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Car sputters on cold starts and tries to stall

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2011 | 11:28 AM
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Default Car sputters on cold starts and tries to stall

Hi. My 91 accord, whenever I start it up from a cold stone start (this has nothing to do with cold as in temperature), the car will start up, but shake and sputter, and the revs will be struggling to stay up and then it dies. I have to put my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling.

But once the car get's warmer or has been idling for a while, the problem completely goes away.

This problem may also have to do with an "idle from hell" problem that I have been having when I put the car in gear.

Fuel pump?
 
  #2  
Old 11-21-2011 | 12:12 PM
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See DIY forujm post on IACV Cleaning. It can be done in place w/o removing coolant hoses w/ a bit more trouble. Avoid getting throttle body cleaner on the IACV solenoid winding.

Also clean both sides of throttle plate and bore around throttle plate w/ throttle body cleaner.

If still a problem the cold air bypass valve may not be opening fully. Search for recent posts on cleaning and adjusting for correct operation.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-2011 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
See DIY forujm post on IACV Cleaning. It can be done in place w/o removing coolant hoses w/ a bit more trouble. Avoid getting throttle body cleaner on the IACV solenoid winding.

Also clean both sides of throttle plate and bore around throttle plate w/ throttle body cleaner.

If still a problem the cold air bypass valve may not be opening fully. Search for recent posts on cleaning and adjusting for correct operation.

good luck
I already cleaned the IACV and the TB...Think you could give me a link about "cleaning and adjusting" the cold air bypass valve? Where is this valve located, I have no idea of what this Cold Air bypass Valve is.

Will the Haynes or Chilton manuals tell me?
 
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Old 11-21-2011 | 07:40 PM
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Look for FITV cleaning/adjusting.......
 
  #5  
Old 11-21-2011 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Look for FITV cleaning/adjusting.......
I already did both of those things. I thought it was a bad distributer but I took it back.
 
  #6  
Old 11-21-2011 | 09:26 PM
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Compression test and block check say? Two tests, let us know what the results are of each.
 
  #7  
Old 11-22-2011 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Compression test and block check say? Two tests, let us know what the results are of each.
I am suspecting it could be a vacuum leak, my only question is how do I check for those.

I will do the compression test soon as a can but I really don't think that a bad cylinder is the sole cause of this problem.
 
  #8  
Old 11-22-2011 | 06:34 PM
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Look for "realfixesrealfast" on youtube. This guy is really good!

Ericthecarguy is another good youtube source.

good luck
 
  #9  
Old 11-22-2011 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
Look for "realfixesrealfast" on youtube. This guy is really good!

Ericthecarguy is another good youtube source.

good luck
In other words, you have no idea what the problem might be? lol, jk... I have just ordered the magnificent Helms manual for my car, i'll be able to fix anything with this.

EricTheCarGuy has some good free videos but in some of them he's starting to ask for admission fee's. I figure that he really just wanted to get popular (which he is) then to make an online business out of his videos.
 
  #10  
Old 11-23-2011 | 06:27 AM
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Not many folks work for charity, just moderators

I doubt your problems are vacuum related since it idles fine when fully warmed, but those videos are much easier than my writing several paragraphs of less useful material.

Shop manual is a good reference for your problem. Glad to hear you have things in hand.

good luck
 


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