Incredibly sorry for the double post

I think I may have found a possible source of the remote problem. When I open my passenger door, the dash does not register it as open, nor does the cabin light come on. The master switch and passenger switch still operate the locks and windows though. So maybe the car computer is confused by the passenger door and won't respond to my remotes?

Again, the window problem I mentioned earlier was with the driver side, so I don't know if the passenger side problem is related to anything the tech did; he shouldn't have been working on that side anyway. Any ideas?

 

Yes, that may be the source of the problem; which would be related to what I previously posted.

Check the door switch on the door jamb. I'll see if I can dig up pictures for testing continuity, which is really simple.

 

This link shows a picture of the door switch on my 2009 Accord; however, it is the same part for your 2003 coupe.

Honda-Tech - View Single Post - HELP! Door ajar wont turn off

I can't find actual service manual instructions regarding testing; however, generally, Honda door switches can be tested with a simple continuity test. You would remove the door switch: pry rubber cap, unscrew the one screw; pull out switch and disconnect wire connector (you may want to use some tape or string to prevent the wire from dropping back in the door jamb hole).

I am not sure whether there is one or two terminals on these new switches as I haven't had a need to pull one out yet. On older Hondas, you would use the tester to touch the one terminal (which you unplugged the wire connector from) and the other end to the metal base (where you removed the mounting screw). If this switch is two terminals, just use the tester on the two terminals. There should be continuity when the switch is in the open position.

You can use a multimeter, continuity test light or buzzer, etc.


Edit: Forgot to say, there should be no continuity in the switch closed position.

 

Bleck, still no response from the keys.

Thanks a ton for the info on checking the door jamb! I got the passenger side door jam working again: cabin lights come on, courtesy light comes on, and dash registers it as open door again. Car functions normally, cabin lights turn off once door closes. Still no response from remotes.

Went out and got new batteries for the keys ($5 each? really?). All keys have new batteries - still no response.

Just to clarify, the programming procedure is:
1) Ignition on (II)
2) Press Lock or Unlock on key
3) Ignition off (I or 0, I've tried both)
4) Repeat until locks cycle

All within 4 seconds of each other, correct?

I'm about to just give in and take it back to the dealer.

 

It should be on page 9 of this:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...9&d=1186328295

The battery price is $1.99 at some electronic shops.

 

Should the car be able to use the power locks when the key is not in the ignition? Like, if I sat in the cabin without my key in the ignition, I am supposed to still be able operate the power locks, right?

I've just noticed that my power locks only work when my key is in the ignition II position. Since the locks do not respond with the key out of the ignition (off), this appears to be the source of my remote problems. Does anyone know?

 

Even with no key in the ignition, the power lock should work.

 

lock switch should work regardless of key in or not

 

Okay this should be my last question regarding this issue haha

I've isolated the problem to the master switch itself. When the key is out of the ignition, the master switch will not control the powerlocks, BUT passenger side switch will lock and unlock the doors.

With the key in ignition II position, the master switch will function normally.

What exactly is the issue here? Bad fuse? Bad switch? Bad wire?

 

The problem is probably the mulitplex control unit which is incorporated into the master switch.