HiYa, Looked in DIY diddy diddy, got the info on changing the front pads but didn't see anyDIY on the rear drum pads. Anything "special" aboutchanging theseor are they a no-brainer? Thank you again & again for a GREAT info site!

 

It is possible that the rear pistons dont just push in, they may screw in. If so, dont allow the dust boot to twist with the piston. If there appears to be a plus sign + cut into the face of the piston, it must be in this direction when completed to match up with a tit on the back of the new pad, look at the piston prior to starting your turning. It cannot end up in the x pattern or the tit on the back of the new pad will not fit into its groove. You can get the special tool from the Autozone tool rental. Screw it all the way in, it may even go in further that the rubber dust boot.

Pump up the brakes when done like normal.

 

I own a 2000 accord LX 4 cyl it too has drums in the rear. Tried removing the drums and they wont budge. Looked in behind at the backing plate for a slot so I could back off on the star wheel like a GM car but could not find one. Anyone here know the correct procedure?

 

Sorry, it was very late last night and your subject threw me off, rear drum brake pads, I only noticed PADS. There has to be an access slot like you are saying. If you force the drum off then you only need to buy a set a shoe keepers that go from the shoe to the backing plate. Many guys change the hardware anyways. Western Auto use to sell hardware kits that were hanging on a rack.

 

the drum is just siezed to the hub, you need to free it.

you can use a deadblow hammer to knock the drum off while turning a flathead screwdriver to create pressure between the drum and backing plate.

i personally prefer using a hammer to strike between the two lug nut studs:

(i decided to have fun with ms paint)



keep in mind the hammer method is risky since you can damage/destroy a lugnut stud if you're not handy with a hammer. i have excellent aim and confidence and never hit a stud. do what you feel confident doing.

 

there is no access hole. the shoes are adjusted with the drum removed. then you 'feel' the play between the drum and shoes while the drum is halfway installed.

if you are removing the drum you should also service the shoes(clean it with brake clean and regrease the backing plate bosses(there are 3 bosses for each shoe)

 

that drawing is awesome.

 

HondatechAV6 I appreciate your handywork in ms and must admit to you that your much more profeciant then I.

I remember working on GM vehicles and when the rear shoes wore into the drums you had to back off on the star adjustment screws rather then force them off. Is there a way to accomplish this with my Accord? I just dont like the idea of using brute force.

Thanks

 

Hondatech 's method is correct and he ir right the drum does seize to the hub ,, but in many occasions it cannot be removed solely by hammering on it ..

If the hammering does not work

there are 2 threaded holes in the drum,, use 2,8 by 1.25 mm bolts , screw them into the holes, they will push onto the hub, screw the bolts in evenly and the drum will pop out ,, you also should spray some wd-40 or equivalent where the drum rides onto the hub ..
once drum is out chk the drum for any lips in the inner part,,( where it rides on the shoes) if so drum should be turned

 

Thanks for the help!!