I have a 1992 Accord LX and a week ago i replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and both cylinders for the clutch hydraulics. I’ve been bleeding the clutch for about a week now and i still only have a little bit of pressure in the pedal and not enough for it to spring all the way backup. I’m not sure if it’s because i didn’t bench bleed either of them or if there’s just a lot of air in the system but it’s getting really annoying now. I’ve bled it with a vacuum pump, manually with a friend, and used an air compressor vacuum pump, but the air bubbles still won’t stop. I’m 100% sure it’s not leaking anywhere i always check for leaks every time i’m bleeding. Anybody have any suggestions? this is my first time doing a clutch job so i’m a bit lost at this point.

 

I've had best luck using a pressure bleeder, pushing fluid into the slave cylinder & flowing "uphill" to the master cylinder. That way you aren't fighting against the buoyancy of air bubbles trying to rise in the lines.

You say you used a "vacuum pump". I've used a MityVac that had a reservoir for sucking fluid out, but I didn't have much luck because it always sucked air into the threads of the bleeder-valve. It worked much better when I cleaned out the reservoir, put fresh fluid in, and set the MityVac to push pressure rather than to pull vacuum.

Or if you still want to use the pedal-pumping method, there's 3 things you have to do with a Honda (and many other makes).
1. Tie a string around the pedal to pull it back up. When bleeding, there's no spring to push the pedal back up. Normally, the pressure-plate does that job through the hydraulic system to push the pedal back up.
2. When pulling the pedal back up, CONTROL it with your foot as you're pulling on the string. NEVER let the pedal snap quickly up, because that tends to suck air into the master cylinder.
3. Don't dawdle while pumping. The air bubbles are trying to rise in the lines, and you're working against that by pumping downhill.

 

I have the cheap pittsburg vacuum pump, do you know of anyway how to reverse it to pressure pump instead? and if this doesn’t work, do you might think i have a defective part like the MC or SC?

 

These days anything is possible. I've even started a wall of shame of new parts that are bad right out the box, like a new fuel filter that you can't blow thru, brake shoes too large to even fit in the drums, a union coupler for brake lines that wasn't tapped on 1 end are some examples. I have others as well, but those 3 come to mind first, mainly because they caused me a problem when I didn't need it (wanted things to go smoothly).

 

On my MityVac there was a little lever to reverse the thing... Maybe you can pump it without anything connected, and see where the air comes out. If it comes out somewhere that you can connect a hose, then try to see if it can produce a bit of pressure.

Toecutter, my wall of shame has a valve, intended to put under the sink to shut off the water supply. The flow path wasn't drilled through the body of the valve. My neighbor (a plumber) said I wouldn't believe the stuff he has seen.

 

i think my coworker has a mityvac at work so i’m just gonna borrow that from him and try it tomorrow. ill let you know how it goes, but it’s still the same process right? crack the bleeder valve and pump pressure and fluid into the slave with the clutch reservoir cap off?

 

Right. First, suck the fluid out of the reservoir to make room for the new fluid.

Check your friend's mityvac - I'm not sure if ALL models have the reversing lever. Then make sure the fluid bottle from the brake kit goes the right way... Mityvac provides pressure to the top of the fluid, and the connection with the straw to the bottom of the bottle is what connects to the bleed screw.

Maybe start pumping first, to remove air from the mityvac hose. THEN stick it onto the bleed screw with minimum air in there. Don't allow that bottle to go empty, or that pumps air into your system & you start all over again.

Alternatives...
Motive brand power bleeder works real nice. See how easy it is for ME to spend YOUR money??

If you HAVE to go back to vacuum bleeding, try a big fat glob of heavy grease around the threads of the bleeder screw. This can prevent air from sucking in at that location. That has helped me do this before I broke down & bought a Motive bleeder.

 

This seems strange to me your having so much problem. These hydraulics are super simple. Have you check other avenues.. is there an adjustment on the slave cylinder push rod? is the actuation of the clutch pedal fully moving the clutch master cylinder with full travel. I have replaced many clutch and slave cylinders and at times didn't even need to bleed them, just pump and air rises up and goes out the master cylinder resivor.
In other words, check other aspects also. you maybe looking in the wrong place.
Good luck and let us know what you found when fixed.
Brian