It sounds to me like air in the clutch hydraulic system, so the first thing to try is bleeding it. The master & slave cylinders are relatively newer, right?

I wrote up this stuff about bleeding the clutch. I've found that on Hondas the clutch pedal needs to be pulled back up during bleeding, and if you let it snap upwards that tends to pull air into the master.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-53115/

If you bleed the clutch by pumping the clutch pedal, that pushes fluid "downhill" and if you don't bleed fast enough the air bubbles rise back towards the master in between pumps. So don't dawdle with that method.

 

O.k. Yea, the master is a new nissin and slave from advance auto are brand new. I have off in a few days, will do my best with some help to bleed it thoroughly and correctly, per your instructions.

Thank you.

 

You might also want to look at the lines between master & slave, for any problems. Excessive corrosion? Tubing partly collapsed or kinked? Check the rubber part of the hose near the slave for deterioration. (or maybe that's all new with the cylinders)

 

We bled twice on 2 occasions. The clutch pedal still gets mushy after going down a ramp that has swift corners or cornering into a parking lot lane quickly, then when i go to press the clutch in-its mushy and doesn't engage. I have to not shift and just depress the clutch again to get pressure back at the pedal. When i sat in the car while my bf was bleeding the line, he told me to pump a few times ... i do but it never pumps up like a brake gets solid when you bleed brakes. Not sure if that's right? I last bring the clutchpedal back up all the way slowly when he tells me with my hand. Is this right? We do this in a flat garage...I'm still having trouble.

 

When I replaced both the clutch master cylinder and slave in my 97 Accord, it took a while to get it to bleed. I think part of it, is because the length of tubing between the tow points, not to mention it seems like it has built in air traps that take a while to get out. Yours definitely sounds like it still has air in the system. Try bleeding it again, now that you've bounced the car around. Just a heads up, it'll never feel like a brake pedal, so you have to keep bleeding until you get a steady stream of fluid out of the bleeder screw when it's opened up. Part of this, is because it moves the slave arm (rod).

 

thanks for the reply. I tried it again very carefully and thoroughly ... still can't get it any better. I'm not sure if the replacement master cylinder is ok, or if there's some way its getting in the line more? I'm not sure if in that case, would it get worse as more air gets in? I have no clue anymore

 

If you got air in it, it'll feel more like it's doing nothing at all (very soft pedal). It's possible you got a bad master, as I've seen bad new parts out of the box. A great example of this was a brake line coupler I bought, that the manufacturer forgot to thread one end of . D'oh. I've also got a generic fuel filter I can't blow thru too. Those are on my new parts wall of shame. I've also got a brand new set of brake shoes for my Geo Prizm, that won't fit the drum (new or old one). They're even AC Delco parts. D'oh. Correct part number on the box too (at least with all of the on line parts suppliers like O'Reilly's, the Zone, NAPA, Advanced Auto, and others).

 

In addition to other checks, you can measure the stroke of the throw-out lever as someone presses the clutch pedal down.

From the resting position, use a scale or something to measure how far the slave piston (or throw-out lever) moves when someone presses the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. For earlier 4-cyl Hondas it was about 10mm, but I'm not sure if the V6 would be any different. Maybe someone with a properly-working clutch on a V6 can check??

Then try again, but after checking the resting position, pump the pedal up & down a couple times then hold it down. Is the position of the lever any different than it was for a single-stroke?

Then holding the pedal down, you should verify that the piston/lever doesn't slowly move back towards it's original resting position.

Let us know what happens with each of these 3 checks.

 

Also, how are you pumping up the pedal for bleeding? When I did mine, I had to use my hand to pump it up, because once you got to a certain point it would just stay on the floor. I'd pump the pedal 3 or 4 times, then hold and bleed, then repeat. Once I had I nice steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder, I called it done. It was what it was. I checked it by using the clutch and driving it. Then I knew I was done. I found that on that car, most of the clutch action was in the last 3 inches of pedal stroke (or at least it seemed that way).

 

Hi thank you for the replies. I have been sitting in the car doing the inside work while my bf does the bleed outside the car. He has me pump it and then push in not too fast and not too slow until it goes to the floor and I hold. When he tells me o.k, I bend down and grab the clutch pedal with my hand to slowly bring it back up, not too quick or slow. Repeat process 10-15x. Sometimes he looked in the reservoir when id pump and on occasion a few air bubbles would come up. We kept going until we didn't see anymore. We been bleeding this thing every other day for over a week, and its not getting any better. Like is bleeding this hard? I'm def not leaking hydraulic fluid anywhere. Still gets mushy on me in the same way I've been describing...