Clutch or tranny problem - 1989 Accord
#1
Clutch or tranny problem - 1989 Accord
Hello my fellow members I picked up my 89 Accord Lx Manual Tranny, with a carb, drove it home about 3 miles it drove fine, but a little rough on the idling, the following morning I was going to drive it to work but it just stalled and would not start back it did after 5 mins, On my way home did not gave me any problems. The next morning the car would nor start so I decided to do a tune up replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs,wires and fuel filters, the car fired up right away, and when I was about to go test drive the car seemed like it jumped like if id started with gear and clutch out and stalled, checked the shifter to see if it was in gear and it was in neautral It fired right up again but I was not able to even go in any gear ecxept on reverse well not really it seemed like it was going but it began to grind or some sort of grinding noise, but the other gears no way jose. I turned off the car but the gears go in and out just fine, I have a cable clutch and the cable still there it does not semeed broken, what else could it be I wanna jump on my 3gee and drive. Thank you for looking and sorry for the long post.
89 Accord 5 speed Carb
89 Accord 5 speed Carb
#2
Sounds like the clutch is dragging, that's why you can shift into gears when the engine isn't running. I don't know the adjustment procedures for the cable clutches real well, but I'll change the thread title to attract Poorman212's attention.
#3
Dang I'm feeling old today.....but I guess I'm of some use, maybe ?
Anyway-OP, there is an adjustment that can be done on the clutch cable. I want to ask a few things first. When it was driving, "about where" was the clutch engagement...way high or way low...low being close to the floorboard?
Check/change the fluid in the trans as soon as you can.....10w-40 engine oil will be fine for this.
For the adjustment....and I hate to post this as my opinion is if everything is working properly you NEVER need to do this except when the clutch it replaced on these.
You will need to "pull" up on the cable gently to turn the "****"....there should be a rubber "gasket" with a "nipple"....this "nipple" kind of locks the **** from turning when at rest....that is why you pull up so the **** does not break the nipple off.
Anyway-OP, there is an adjustment that can be done on the clutch cable. I want to ask a few things first. When it was driving, "about where" was the clutch engagement...way high or way low...low being close to the floorboard?
Check/change the fluid in the trans as soon as you can.....10w-40 engine oil will be fine for this.
For the adjustment....and I hate to post this as my opinion is if everything is working properly you NEVER need to do this except when the clutch it replaced on these.
You will need to "pull" up on the cable gently to turn the "****"....there should be a rubber "gasket" with a "nipple"....this "nipple" kind of locks the **** from turning when at rest....that is why you pull up so the **** does not break the nipple off.
#6
Engaging high is normally a worn-out clutch. The clutch is worn thin and is getting ready to slip when it gets even thinner.
But sometimes the clutch disk warps as it gets thin, and that causes it to drag on the flywheel/pressureplate. When the clutch drags, that causes the trans to refuse to go into gears.
But sometimes the clutch disk warps as it gets thin, and that causes it to drag on the flywheel/pressureplate. When the clutch drags, that causes the trans to refuse to go into gears.
#7
So pardon my ignorance! But can I repair that how do I make the clutch disengage I dont think I have the money to get a new clutch if that is the case. I hope I can get it fixed without replacing the clutch just yet. Thank you for the input
#8
Hay, at 55 I'm old enough to have owned those cars, but back then I was driving VWs & lusting after BMWs.
I'm not saying it's necessarily possible to repair that without replacing the clutch. Just reminding that there IS a possibility that it goes beyond clutch-cable adjustment. Certainly do what you can with the cable first, because all the adjustment in the world is nearly free when you do it yourself. Look for sloppy mechanical action in any of that cable system.
I'm not saying it's necessarily possible to repair that without replacing the clutch. Just reminding that there IS a possibility that it goes beyond clutch-cable adjustment. Certainly do what you can with the cable first, because all the adjustment in the world is nearly free when you do it yourself. Look for sloppy mechanical action in any of that cable system.
#9
Gotcha so in the event that i need to replace the clutch can you guys walk me trough the steps I think i can do it I just dont want to do more than I have to. I have to be at work all day today and tomorrow but sat i will tackle this bad boy
#10
As Jim said, this is sounding like a clutch gone bad......
Try more adjusting.
Replacing the clutch, arm yourself with data. Start with the manual you can download, see the Common DIY Threads at the top.......read that and then let us know if you are willing to go forward........
Try more adjusting.
Replacing the clutch, arm yourself with data. Start with the manual you can download, see the Common DIY Threads at the top.......read that and then let us know if you are willing to go forward........