I thought I had solved my problem, but apparently not. I have a 95 accord ex with 2.2 vtec and the battery keeps dying. I'm suspecting that it's the condenser fan that keeps coming on that is killing it. I tried swapping the relay the other day with the power window relay and the condenser fan still came on. I went out to remove the battery tonight to charge it and the relay under the hood (the one that sits next to the power window relay) was clicking constantly. I removed the wire plug from the Thermoswitch B and it was still clicking. So I removed the relay and hooked up the two silver terminals to a 9 volt battery. I can easily hear it click, but I don't show any readings on my voltmeter. I know the voltmeter is working because I hooked it up right to the battery and it showed good. So, if I hear it click but it doesn't show voltage on the copper terminals is the relay bad?

As I understand it, if the key is off and the condenser fan is running, (the condenser fan is the one on the pax side correct?) I should be able to remove the wire plug from the thermoswitch and it should shut off. If it doesn't turn off, does that mean I've got harness problems? And last but not least, if the relay is good, and the thermoswitches are good, then it has to be either wiring or the brain behind the glove box right?

Oh, and yeah I checked all the fuses, they're all good.

Thank you in advance

 

the same thing is happenin wit my car.......the fan stay on constantly.......even when i unplug the relay it still satys on. i dont know if its a sensor thats causin it or if its the fan

 

I believe your temp sensor can kick on the fan as well... you may want to test that.

 

Here, check this.... sounds like the relay is working...

[IMG]local://upfiles/3079/277883F8C96D406BBCBC148B63B5A166.jpg[/IMG]

 

but if u unplug tha tempsensor and the fan is still runin then it cant be the sensor right??

 

Allmetalweaverhas the fan identificationreversed. The condensor fan is on the driver's side and radiator fan is on the pax side.

Radiator fan relay is in the underhood fuse box as shown in the embedded diagram. Shorted radiator fan relay contacts is likely the reason radiator fan runs all the time and reason that pulling thermoswitch B has not affect. Thermoswitch B interrupts ground to the relay drive coil,so if relay contacts are shorted, the fanjust keeps merrily running.

good luck

good luck

 

so how would u go about fixin that problem ???

 

So Texas, what tests should I attempt to see if the relay is shorting?

I swapped relays with the power windows. I haven't driven the car for over 9 hours and the radiator fan only comes on when the key is not in the ignition. If I turn the ignition to on, it turns both fans on. I tested thermoswitch A and I was getting continuity to ground but I was getting very little voltage to the power side. I pull the wires and the fans both still run so as you say I must have a short somewhere correct?

I guess I'll start trying to find where the voltage short is coming from.

 

If you have confirmed the radiator fan continues to run w/ the radiator fan relay removed, then a short is certain since there is no other path for power to the fan.

I would suggest first removing the radiator fan relay. Then, starting from the fan, trace the blu/blk wire back towards the underhood fuse box looking for the short. A VOM or test light will help to check for voltage (12v). I would suspect some tampering by someone, but you never know. Lift the underhood fuse box and make sure the short is not in the fuse box.

good luck