Here I am, back to square one:

Replaced the Radiator cap, seems like overflowing of the tank issue has been resolved.

But car still seems to overheat, have a look on the attached pictures.

I face this over heating issue only in stop and go traffic, at a stop or when I put the car in 'park' after a 1 hour drive.

Only thing left is, Thermostat, since I have replaced A/B switch, radiator, hoses.

Also, if I touch the upper/lower radiator hoses, they are HOT, like hell

Are all pointers towards the Thermostat or something else?

 

I've been running a 180° Stant for a couple of years with no problem. No harm in replacing yours but another question to ask: are you losing coolant? Had the identical symptoms and it turned out to be a bad head gasket. My theory is that combustion gases pressurized the cooling system forcing coolant into the overflow. Then, as the engine cooled after being shut down, the leaky head gasket wouldn't allow the cooling system to create a vacuum to suck the coolant back into the overflow tank.

 

Plugged system maybe? Just throwin suggestions... A flush may do good.

 

Yes, I have to put coolant in the radiator, because coolant was pushed to the reservoir and reservoir was overflowing too

But after replacing the Radiator cap, seems like overflow issue for the reservoir has been resolved, but Overheating is still driving me NUTS

On a cold start, while car is on Idle, driver side fan will come, approximately after how many minutes? If it doesn't come what needs to be checked? Fan, relay, fuse, A/B switch, radiator?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, before I ruin the engine

 

It depends on ambient temp. Mine takes about a half an hour idling @70°F from a cold start. Since both fans run when the gauge creeps up, run the car temporarily without a T-stat to rule it out as being the problem.

 

Thanks for your patience, did some troubleshooting today.

Fired her up from cold start, let it idle for nearly 45min in Park and here are the results in sequence:

1-Just checked all the fuses and relays for the fan, all are fine and working.

2-Upper hose is getting hotter and waiting for the lower to get hot, none of the fan has come yet

3-Both hoses are hot like hell, hard to touch and still no fan yet

4-Temp gauge is at normal, where it is supposed to be.

5- Gauge is now at the half mark and rising, both Fans kicked in and both ran for 30-45 sec(aren't they suppose to run for long time?), gauge went below the half mark. Again needle climbed above the half mark and both fans came for 30-45 sec.

6- Again, needle climbed above the half mark and both fans came for 30 sec and it dropped below the half, same cycle happened "3" times.

7- My AC doesn't work(Next on the list to fix), I turned the AC on, none of the FAN came or moving.

Things to consider:

1- Thermostat is definitely good, I think?
2- W/P is definitely good, since car doesn't overheat that much while driving and if I throttle needles goes lil bit down.

Why both Fan come together and run only for 30-45 sec? One Fan supposed to be running to cool down the car or No?

Looking for Help guys

 

Your fans are fine. Mine run for less than a minute too w/o the AC running. I think your T-stat is OK too although I guess it could be sticking closed intermittently.

From my experience, running normal temps on the highway but overheating at idle points to low coolant.

 

It sounds like things are working normally.

Both fans turn on too cool the radiator. The names radiator and a/c fan are misleading.

You may want to stop by a dealership and get a Honda thermostat. Then you will know that it opens at the proper temperature.

 

Thanks PAhonda, let me bite this bullet of buying the OEM t-stat

Car definitely overheats, as posted in my previous pictures, where you can clearly see gauge rising and going towards the 'Red' mark

Another thing; if there is an issue with HG, what would be the symptoms?

Can coolant be pushed to the reservoir because of bad thermostat or HG?

I have no coolant in the plugs, not on the Oil filler cap, no oil in the reservoir/radiator and no white smoke as well.

 

Mine were:

1. Losing ~1qt. coolant every 200 miles
2. With low coolant the gauge would read <1/2 on the highway, but zoom up to almost red when idling (even briefly.) Gauge would quickly drop back down if engine was revved.
3. Miss on one or two cylinders for a couple of seconds on cold (overnight) starts

Mine did due to a bad HG.

Mine had none of those symptoms. After HG replacement the coolant level didn't budge and the gauge never got above 1/2.

A leak down test is the most reliable diagnosis for a bad HG. If coolant is pushed back into the radiator when a cylinder is pressurized at TDC then the HG is leaking.