yes not changed anything to wiring
I rarely drive this car, it's a spare so I really never have to add fluid. I opened cap today and it was still full. I don't see any leaks or any sign I'm losing coolant

 

This is a tough call on what is going on with this vehicle.

The fans aren't wired properly, but shorting that connector should turn on the fans. I'd suggest using a volt meter to verify the non-black wire to that connector has 12V with the key on. If yes, then jump that wire to ground to see if your fans turn on.

I'd get a loaner tool from the parts store to pressure test your radiator. It requires a deposit that gets refunded when you return the tool. Make sure the system can hold ~16 psi.

These are the easy tests. It sounds like coolant isn't circulating through your system. The water pump could be bad out of the box where the impeller isn't turning, the radiator could be clogged. This could be a head gasket leak. You definitely shouldn't throw parts at the problem like a new radiator. Check that your radiator hoses aren't collapsing on themselves and creating a restriction?

 

Bottom radiator hose is the IN HOSE correct?
so if I unhook top rad hose from radiator and have rad full of water and no thermo installed, I should be able to put a shop vac into top rad hose and suck water through entire system, pulling water out of radiator right?

 

I would not use a vac on it. Just get a water hose wrap a towel around it push it on the connected hosr and flush it out. You would want to have the bottom hose unhooked from the engine and flush from the top hose out then do it opposite to do a backwards flush. Then do the same on the radiator. This is the easy method. This ensures you don't have a blockage in the block or radiator.

I hope you understood what I was saying

 

Yeah I get what you're saying. No rain today. Gonna do some testing

 

Verified jumping switch makes fans come on. Bottom rad hose is on thermo housing . That is the IN flow right ? In to the motor ?

 

Flushed radiator and motor both ways.. water clean and flows fine

 

If you run without the T-stat you should put the gasket into the housing. Without the T-stat, it might not seal perfectly, but it's a test. If you want it to seal correctly, you can cut the middle out of the old T-stat & use the outer flange to help hold the gasket. I usually don't bother with that, but I've never had to drive far without a T-stat.

Upper radiator hose flows from engine towards radiator. Lower hose flows back to engine. If the flow rate is good, the lower hose will be somewhat warm, especially if you're idling without the fans running. If the lower hose stays cold, that indicates the flow rate is low & the water has plenty of time inside the radiator to get cold.

 

Refilled and started car without thermostat in but gasket. Cap off of radiator, heater on. Had torque pro set to watch coolant. Had ir gun at the ready. Started car let idle and let bubbles. Water moved around, revved engine, kept checking all hoses, hoses were heating nicely. Heads stayed around 150. Water tube was around 140 150. Lower hose is about 10 degrees off from upper hose(146). Idle temp of car got to 187.4
heat did start working

 

Close the top and take it for a drive. Seems like flow is good. The fan should be the culprit. While driving around the block see if it starts to overheat when stopped