Hi all, First time on here, I inherited my grandmother's 1995 Honda Accord LX. The passenger side cv axel is shot, boot torn at the tranny actually just missing it metal seal ring but most likely torn on the other side. It's making a thumping noise when turning right and on cold nights, it limps a bit.

Anyways I was looking up the howto procedures, some say I need to change the tranny fluid if I do the passenger side. I wouldn't know since I've never done a cv axel replacement. Anyways, is this true? Is it a normal tranny fluid change of 3 quarts or do I need to do a flush?

also what tranny fluid should I use in these accord transmissions?

 

Well, u could reuse fluid if container is clean, then go get a flush if need be. (get the filter changed to) ive only replaced axle on driver side, but its easy, especially if u have a pnumatic drill! Look at Eric the car guy on YouTube, simple vids, easy to understand. There is posts in this section on page 2 about tranny fluid, they say DW-1, but not sure bout fluid draining, none came out on driver side. If u need fluid change, internal filter is important. Jiffy lube and such do not do that.

 

Manual says to drain the fluid to change the pax side axle. I've done this several times w/o draining, but warnning seems to be that seal might be pushed out by internal fluid pressure.

If it's an auto, the use Honda ATF, otherwise Honda manual gear lube.

good luck

 

Alright thanks, I wasn't sure if it was needed because I couldn't find ATF-DW1 locally until I was reading another post on here that carquest had it and I never even heard of carquest. Sure enough there's one locally and carries Honda ATF-DW1, also has reman cv axels.

I need to change the tranny fluid anyway, it's an automatic, tends to stick in second when I come to a stop and won't downshift into first when I accelerate from a dead stop, unless I force it via the gear shifter.

also eric the car guy said the filter was internal on the honda automatic transmissions and can only be replace when it's dissemble.

 

True about the filter being internal.

I thought the reason for draining the fluid is that it'll pour out of the hole when you remove the axle, and make a big mess if you don't drain it first. Maybe that's true if you use a lift (car is level)?

 

This has been a ****ing nightmare.

Some dip**** has over tighten axel nut I've broken a socket wrench, my 15" breaker bar, my 30" breaker bar, I've broken a reducer adapter for the 36mm socket. This bitch won't budge at all with wd-40 and brake cleaner and anything between.

Then I tried removing the rotor, and I stripped two of the bolts so now I can't remove them, and comparing them to the other two I removed those wer pretty worn as well. I've spent about $100 in bolt extractor tools, that didn't work, then try notching it for a flat blade and that has failed as well.

So now I'm just going to cut the axel nut off and get piece of **** cv axel out of the way and remove the bolts for the wheel hub and and just get a new wheel hub, brake rotor. I also need that rotor mount plate that contains the lug bolts on the front of the rotor but I don't even know what it's called.

Anyone want to help me out?

EDIT:

Just now my dad manged to get one of the bolts out after alot of cutting, looking at it someone put thread locker on it. Now we know why the axel nut is stuck.

 

Smack rusted bolts with a hammer before cranking too hard on them. An oxy-acetylene torch will usually free up any seized fasteners. Even a propane torch can help. The usual drill with axle nuts is a two-foot, half inch drive breaker bar with a five-foot piece of pipe over it, along with a half inch drive 36mm socket. 3/4 inch drive stuff is great if you have it, but adapters tend to be a weak link. Definitely use an impact adapter if you need to use one.

Edit: Use anti-seize on all threads when reassembling.

 

It was an impact adapter that broke, I just call them reducers. My dad and I spent all day doing that sort of stuff, heating it up, hitting it with hammers, just ****ing doing whatever we could think of, but my breaker bars actually had 6 foot galvanized pipe on them before they broke like little bitches.

I finally got all the stripped bolts off the rotor, I had to cut into them and then use a chisel to dig into and push the bolt around, some minor cuts in the wheel hub *I figured it out, now I know rotors are going to be a pain to replace.* But hub is fine and can be reuse, $166 to replace wheel hub but a rotor is cheap, **** that.

Anyways I finally free the hub from the axel after cutting directly into the CV axel using a pneumatic dremel with the most bad *** cutting disc I could find in the shop. Even still the closer I got to the bottom of the nut it still wouldn't budge. I had to split that bitch in two.

This car is literally a pain in my ***.

I even named the folder the pictures are in as "pain in my ***."

What was suppose to be a 2 hour job took the whole day because some dip**** mechanic put thread locker and over tighten this ****.

By the way that reminds me I need the torque specifications for the axel nut, ball joints nuts, tie rod nut and rotor bolts to wheel hub, anyone got an idea what they might be before I hit Google up?

 

Are you still needing the spec's? I see your post was last night so not sure if you found them yet are not....

Go here:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-manuals-4597/

use the link to the spoonertuner site and get the manual for the 94 Accord.

 

Thank you, I downloaded the shop manual from one of the other links in that thread. It was very useful. I got the car back together, put on new brake pads took it for the test drive, and the thumping is gone but popping that comes right after the thumping remains except it's no longer coming from the right side and it's more like it's right under my left foot and it only does it when I turn right.

I can only say the thumping was from the broken boot which is why I assume that was where the problem was.

How aggravating, I'll have to do it next weekend.