The Dealer wants to do a DIAG. check for engine lights for $95. Major SE RVICE for 424.00 front break job for $210, clean and adjust rear break for $60, break flush for $130.00 and balance for $60.... all these because I went there for a recall on my windshield wiper motor. Most of these, if really needed I can get it done lot cheaper from my regular mechanic.

My Honda has 4 cylinders. I am planning to buy a scanner. Now what you think of scanner called Car-Master which sells for $84 [advertised in PC magazine]versus Scan Gage II sold by Auto Zone for $170.00. I am researching on their specifications as to what else they can really do. Thanks so much for all your feed back, It was really appreciated.

 

Brakes are pretty easy on your Accord. My 2003 Accord blew up at 100,000 and I let it sit for close to a year before having the dealer put in a use motor. They quoted me a pretty high price for pads and rotors which rusted pretty bad. It cost me a $100 to do the whole job. The machine shop was able to cut the rotors for a total of $40 and it just needed rear pads(I used the Honda ones), the front were still in good shape and I just took of the glaze. On the 2003 Accord the rotors come off easy ,no having to deal with wheel bearings. In regard to your rear brakes the Honda dealer I go to and worked at takes the brake pads out and cleans and lubes them then reinstalls as part of their maintenance. I have never understood the point of this.

 

$424 "major service" - I wonder what that includes? Oil change with a thorough inspection of all the brakes & balljoints & stuff? High price for looking around for broken stuff.

Maybe a suspension alignment is hidden in there somewhere to justify that $$$ ?

Like you said, get the same stuff done at your regular mechanic.
Fresh brake fluid is a good idea - it gets corrosive with age.
Brakes are like Chris says, nothing real profound.

Chris, my guess about the rear brake pads is the rear pads often last real long. Plenty long enough for the caliper slide pins to stick & the pads to get rust-bound in the caliper bracket. I usually find some excuse to dismantle-clean-lube my brake calipers somewhere around 50% life.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by WINSTON1425

The Dealer wants to do a DIAG. check for engine lights for $95. Major SE RVICE for 424.00 front break job for $210, clean and adjust rear break for $60, break flush for $130.00 and balance for $60.... all these because I went there for a recall on my windshield wiper motor. Most of these, if really needed I can get it done lot cheaper from my regular mechanic.

Sorry for the delayed reply,

I do not know anything about the Ca-Master Scanner. What I would suggest is that you look at several scanners, the features and benefits of each and decide from there what you want and or need. If the Car-Master and the Scangauge II are very similar it would be a better buy to go with the Car-Master. Since I do not know if they are similar or not, I can not make that call.

As others mentioned I would do the brake flush. Brake fluid and clutch fluid is supposed to be replaced every 2 years due to moisture and air getting in the lines. Most people do not do this maintenance item and it can cost more down the road if something happens.

On every vehicle I purchase the brake fluid and clutch fluid (if applicable) are in the top list of items to be done right away.

You can get a very general idea as to the condition of your brake fluid by looking in the reservoir. If it looks like a swamp (all brown, etc, or any other color than clear) then it is time to replace it. Brake fluid will be clear, and should be clear in the reservoir.

The clutch fluid and brake fluid are “usually” the same in most vehicles. You can use DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch. You can also use DOT4 on some vehicles.

Hope that helps.

 

I went to Advanced Auto here in Maryland they checked it told that my code is P0141. I understand, it is the O2 sensor. Then I went to my mechanic, he told me it is secondary O2 sensor located inside my Catalytic Converter.

I thought that the sensor is inside the hood, the mechanic says it is underneath the car that I will have to put the car on hoist to replace it.

I would like to purchase a scanner like the one advertised by the AutoZone but I need more than just a real time display. I like something that I can plug into my PC get detailed information.

 

P0141 is the pre-heater circuit in the 2nd O2 sensor. Yes, that's the sensor in the cat-converter.

You might have to go underneath the right-front seat for the plug where you can unplug that sensor. Look for 2 same-color (black?) wires on the sensor side of that plug. Measure resistance between them. A failed heater will usually read open-circuit (no continuity).

If the sensor-heater is OK, then you'll have to troubleshoot the circuit inside the car. Post back if that's the case. The wires corresponding to those heater wires are supposed to supply battery voltage when the car is running.